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Shauna Coxsey

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Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber.[2] She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017.[3][4] She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics.[5][6][7], and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.

Shauna Coxsey
MBE
Coxsey in August 2017
Personal information
Born (1993-01-27) 27 January 1993 (age 31)
Runcorn, England
Height164 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)[1]
Spouse
Ned Feehally
​
(m. 2021)​
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Ape index+8.5 cm (3 in)
Highest grade
Retired2021
Medal record
Women's sport climbing
Representing  Great Britain
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2019 Hachiōji Combined
World Cup
Third place 2017 Combined
Winner 2017 Bouldering
Winner 2016 Bouldering
Second place 2015 Bouldering
Second place 2014 Bouldering
Third place 2012 Bouldering
La Sportiva Legends Only
Gold medal – first place 2017 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2015 Bouldering
British Championships
Gold medal – first place 2016 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2015 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2013 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2012 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2012 Bouldering
The CWIF
Gold medal – first place 2016 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2015 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2014 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2013 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2012 Bouldering
Updated on 13 August 2019

Early life

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Coxsey was born in Runcorn on 27 January 1993. She began climbing in 1997 at the age of four, inspired by a television broadcast of Catherine Destivelle climbing in Mali.[8][9] Although she was not tall enough to be allowed to climb, she continued to insist and was eventually allowed on the wall a few months later.[10]

Career

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Coxsey climbing at the Boulder World Cup finals in August 2017

Coxsey was mainly active in competition climbing and has participated in several international competitions in bouldering. She has won the British Bouldering Championships on multiple occasions.[11] In 2012, she won the 9th edition of the Melloblocco and placed 2nd in the World Cup stages in Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck.[12] She finished third in the 2012 Bouldering World Cup.[11] In 2013, she cleanly ascended her first problem graded 8B (V13)  when she climbed Nuthin' But Sunshine in Rocky Mountain National Park.[13] In November, she was appointed one of the UK's first British Mountaineering Council Ambassadors.[14]

In 2014, Coxsey placed second overall in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup,[15] and fourth at the Bouldering World Championships in Munich.[16] The same year, she became the third woman ever to boulder 8B+ (V14) when she topped New Baseline in Magic Wood near the Swiss town of Chur.[17] In 2015, she won the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield and took first place at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich.[11][18][19][20]

In late 2016, Coxsey suffered a shoulder injury which prevented her from competing in that year's Bouldering World Championships,[12] despite topping the overall rankings in the Bouldering World Cup.[21] She won four IFSC Climbing World Cups in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Innsbruck (AUT) and Sheffield (UK). At the World Cup in Munich (GER) she placed second.[11] In 2017, she again won four Bouldering World Cup stages,[12] in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Mumbai (IND) and Vail (USA). In Munich (GER) she again placed second and secured the overall 2017 title.[3][11]

In August 2019, Coxsey won two bronze medals at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, in bouldering and the combined event. During the finals of the combined event, she set a British women's speed climbing record of 9.141 seconds, securing second place in the speed component of the combined ranking by winning races against Futaba Ito and Miho Nonaka before losing to Aleksandra Miroslaw.[22] Her record lasted until August 2024 when it was finally broken by Ava Hamilton at the European Championships.[23] Additionally, by reaching the finals of the combined event, Coxsey secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics, the first to include competitive climbing.[22] When the Olympics was finally in 2021, she was recovering from a back injury, surgical treatment and rehabilitation. She came 10th in the competition.[24] She planned to discontinue competitive climbing after the Olympics, but to continue as an elite-level rock climber.[25]

In 2022, Coxsey continued climbing on indoor climbing walls whilst pregnant with her first child; she worked with a specialist physiotherapist and her husband, who is also a climber, to assess the routes as her body shape changed.[25] Upon returning to outdoor climbing, after having her first child, she has climbed at a high level, including sending three 8B+ (V14) climbs. [26][27][28]

Personal life

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Coxsey was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in the 2016 Birthday Honours for services to climbing.[9][29][30] She married fellow climber Ned Feehally in 2021.[25] They reside in Sheffield.[25]

Rankings

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World Cup[3]

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Discipline 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead - - - - - - - 30 - - -
Bouldering 38 19 3 4 2 2 1 1 9 10 61
Speed - - - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - 3 - - -

World Championships

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Youth[12]

Discipline 2008
Youth B 		2009
Youth A
Lead 9 19

Adult[12]

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Bouldering 16 - 4 - - 3
Lead - - - - - 17
Speed - - - - - 41
Combined - - - - - 3

World Cup podiums

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Bouldering[12]

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Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 3 3
2013 1 2 3
2014 2 3 1 6
2015 1 3 4
2016 4 2 6
2017 4 2 6
2018 0
2019 1 1 2
Total 11 12 7 30

Outdoor bouldering

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Coxsey is the first British woman to climb the V12, V13, and V14 grades.

V14 (8B+):

V13 (8B):

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Shauna Coxsey". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on 17 November 2017.
  2. ^ "Tokyo 2020 Olympics: British climber Shauna Coxsey confirms bid to compete at Games". BBC Sport. 8 October 2017. Retrieved 8 October 2017.
  3. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  4. ^ Coxsey, Shauna; Fiell, Clem; Kenny, Stuart (7 December 2018). "I Never Leave Without... My Pillow from Home | Shauna Coxsey, Professional Climber". Amuse. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  5. ^ "Shauna Coxsey Retiring from Comps after Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 14 June 2021. Retrieved 26 August 2021.
  6. ^ "Shauna Coxsey Retirement".
  7. ^ "Shauna Coxsey retires after failing to qualify for Olympic final". Runcorn and Widnes World. 4 August 2021. Retrieved 26 August 2021.
  8. ^ Coxsey, Shauna (10 April 2017). "The Paywall". Shauna Coxsey's blog. Archived from the original on 5 January 2018.
  9. ^ a b Anderson, Maria (24 April 2019). "Podium Dreams: Two-Time Bouldering World Champ Shauna Coxsey Guns for the Olympics". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  10. ^ "Shauna Coxsey – Climbing – Official Athlete Page". Red Bull. Retrieved 5 August 2024.
  11. ^ a b c d e "Shauna Coxsey". Red Bull. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  12. ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Coxsey's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  13. ^ Chris Parker (27 June 2013). "Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine – V13". rockandice.com. Retrieved 27 June 2013.
  14. ^ "Inspirational climbers become BMC Ambassadors". thebmc.co.uk.
  15. ^ "Shauna Coxsey Runner-up in IFSC Climbing World Cup". ifsc-climbing.org.
  16. ^ "Results of the IFSC World Championships Munich 2014 – Boulder". ifsc-climbing.org.
  17. ^ "Shauna Coxsey sets a New Baseline for Britain". thebmc.co.uk.
  18. ^ "Landman and Coxsey crowned new British bouldering champions". The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on 10 August 2019.
  19. ^ "BMC British Bouldering Championships - results" (PDF). The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 August 2019.
  20. ^ "2015 Munich Bouldering World Cup – Results". OnBouldering.com. Archived from the original on 10 August 2019.
  21. ^ McCracken, Steven (26 September 2016). "Ondra Retains Crown at 2016 Paris World Championships". Vertical Gear.
  22. ^ a b Dream week for Shauna Coxsey: two bronze medals and Olympic quota place, The British Mountaineering Council, 20 August 2019
  23. ^ "Speed finals: Villars 2024". IFSC. 29 August 2024. See 2:08 for an announcement of Hamilton's new British record and beginning at 1:21:00 for an interview with Hamilton.
  24. ^ Majendie, Matt (19 May 2021). "Shauna Coxsey's basement is a slice of climbing heaven and we want in". Red Bull.
  25. ^ a b c d "'I'm a pregnant woman making choices': Shauna Coxsey on climbing – and the 'bullies' who want her to stop". the Guardian. 18 May 2022. Retrieved 18 May 2022.
  26. ^ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/03/8b+_and_two_8bs_for_shauna_coxsey-73606
  27. ^ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/05/shauna_coxsey_climbs_the_boss_8b+-73667
  28. ^ https://www.climber.co.uk/news/shauna-coxsey-climbs-her-third-font-8b-of-2024/
  29. ^ "No. 61608". The London Gazette (Supplement). 11 June 2016. p. B17.
  30. ^ The Queen's Birthday Honours 2016, Cabinet Office, 10 June 2016, retrieved 10 June 2016
  31. ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs New Base Line, third female V14 ever". OnBouldering.com. 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  32. ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs Ropes of Maui". OnBouldering.com. 7 April 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  33. ^ "One Summer in Paradise, another 8B for Coxsey". OnBouldering.com. 4 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  34. ^ Duncan Campbell (April 2014). "Shauna Coxsey Climbs 2nd 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  35. ^ Björn Pohl (June 2013). "VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey climbs Nuthin' but sunshine, 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
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