Text Appearing Before Image: in the background stand the great cypress trees overshadowing perhaps somemillions of their dead, their dust mingling with that of other millions of Byzantines,Thracians, and still earKer settlers. Hitherto the Ottoman town has been littlemodified by European innovations. Many quarters have preserved their originalcharacter; the fountains with their arabesque carvings, the sculptured tombstones,the two-storied wooden houses with their projecting gables, the steep windingstreets and shady plantains, remain unchanged. From Mount Bulgurlu, overlookingthe town, a superb panorama is commanded of Constantinople, the Bosphorus, andPropontis. South-east of Scutari the line of suburbs is continued by huge barracks and Text Appearing After Image: O s EH H U HEEACIjBA—ANOYEA—SCUTARI—BEUSSA. 309 cemeteries as far as the headland of Kadi-koi, tlie ancient Chalcedonia. Here hasalready begun the European invasion that is gradually changing the aspect of theplace. The resident population is chiefly Greek, with a few hundred merchants,mostly English, from Constantinople. On the plain separating Kadi-koi from thegreat cemetery of Scutari were formerly assembled the armies of the padishahsfor their Asiatic expeditions. Here, close to the largest barracks in the world,now stands the Haidar Pasha terminus of the railway which skirts the north sideof the Gulf of Ismid, and which is destined one day to be continued through Syriaand Babylonia to India. It touches at the little ports of Mal-tepeh, Kafial, Pendik,and reaches Ghahize (^Ghyiissa,^ where Hannibal died, and where a hiUock shadedby three cypresses is said to preserve the ashes of the great captain. Ismid (^Iskimidy the ancient Nicomedia, built by a son of Neptune, and Pig. 1
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