Spantik (Balti language), or Golden Peak, is a mountain situated in the subrange within the Karakoram range. It is located in the Arandu Valley, Shigar District, within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. The northwest face of Spantik is dominated by a pronounced pillar of creamy yellow marble which reaches up its north face to 300 m below the summit. Its distinctive appearance has given the peak its Buruskaski name, "Ganesh Chish" or Golden Peak.[2] This outcropping is renowned for its exceptionally challenging climbing route, famously referred to as the "Golden Pillar."[3]
| Spantik | |
|---|---|
| Golden Peak | |
 Spantik south east ridge (left) | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,027 m (23,054 ft) |
| Coordinates | 36°3′26.35″N 74°57′28.74″E / 36.0573194°N 74.9579833°E[1] |
| Naming | |
| Native name | سپانٹک (Balti) |
| Geography | |
  Spantik  Spantik Spantik (Pakistan) | |
| District | Shigar |
| Parent range | Spantik-Sosbun Mountains |
Spantik is positioned to the east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting.[4] There are various routes leading to the mountain, including paths from the Arandu village in the Shigar District, as well as routes originating from the Hoper valleys in the Nagar District.
Climbing history
editThe southeast ridge presents a challenging ascent, spanning 2,700 meters over a lateral distance of 7.6 km. The terrain along this ridge is diverse, ranging from rocky outcrops to snow, ice, and scree. The incline along this route generally remains under 30 degrees, with a few sections reaching up to 40 degrees. The most frequently chosen route for climbers follows the southeast ridge, a line that was originally attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906.[citation needed]
The mountain has become popular with organised commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers.[citation needed] The short 3-day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization.
First ascents
editThe first recorded attempt to climb Spantik was in 1906 by Americans Fanny Bullock Workman and Dr. William Hunter Workman. They reached an altitude 1,000 feet below the summit.[5] In 1955, Germans Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt and Jochen Tietze made the first successful ascent of Spantik via the Chogolungma Glacier up the southeast ridge.[5]
In 1978, separate Japanese expeditions made successful summits via the southeast ridge[6] and the unclimbed south ridge.[7]
In 1985, a Dutch expedition made the fourth successful summit of Spantik, and the first ascents by female climbers Antoinette Briët, Sabine Deneer, and Dr. Margreet Hogeweg.[8]
In 1987, George Fowler and Anthony Victor Saunders made the first ascent of Spantik's "Golden Pillar" via its northwest face.[5] The route would not be summited again until 2000.[9][10]
In 1989, a Swiss-German expedition saw the next successful summits by female climbers, made by Irene Oehringer, Ursula Heynert, Eva Höllinger, Gerhild Kurze, and Monika Weber.[11]
In 2009, a Korean expedition by Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun-young made a new route on Spantik's northwest face, climbing in alpine style.[12] The 2,300 m route, Dream 2009 was climbed from July 8 to 14th and graded VI WI4 M8.[13]
Pakistani expeditions
editThe first Pakistani expedition to Spantik took place in 1988, consisting of six Pakistan army personnel alongside a German expedition team, The first Pakistani to reach the summit was Muhammad Moiz Uddin Uppal.[citation needed]
In July 2011, Spantik was climbed by a team of mountaineers from the Army High Altitude School Rattu. Lt Col Abdul Aziz supervised the team of climbers.[citation needed]
In 2012, Abdul Jabbar Bhatti led the China-Pakistan Friendship Expedition to a successful ascent of Spantik in honor of the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan.[14]
On August 2, 2017, Uzma Yousaf became the first Pakistani woman to climb Spantik as well as any peak above 7,000 meters in Pakistan.[15] The next year, Komal Uzair became the second Pakistani woman to scale Spantik.[16]
On 14 August 2024, Fareed Hussain become youngest mountaineer to summit Golden Peak. He hails from Rahimabad, a small village in Gilgit
Dual ascent
editIn 1998, French climber Daniel Petraud summitted Spantik twice in 16 hours, a new milestone.[17]
Youngest ascent
editOn July 17, 2019, Selena Khawaja, a 10 year old girl from Abbottabad reached the summit, becoming the youngest person to scale Spantik and any peak over 7,000 meters in the world.[18]
Ski descent
editIn 2019, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein made the first successful ski descent of Spantik.[19]
Paragliding
editOn June 8, 2021, French paraglider Antoine Girard landed a paraglider at 6,400 m on Spantik's southwest ridge. He climbed to the summit, and flew off the mountain, landing safely in Karimabad an hour later.[20][21]
Climbing incidents
editIn 2002, Japanese climber Saito Kenji died on descent from the summit of acute mountain sickness.[22]
In August 2006, German climber Andrea Linckh died near Camp II on her descent from the summit.[23][24]
In June 2024, Japanese climbers Atsushi Taguchi and Ryuseki Hiraoka went missing during their attempt to summit the peak in alpine style.[25] Hiraoka's body was found 300 meters below camp 3 two days after going missing.[26] A third Japanese climber, Hiroshi Onishi died less than a month later after falling into a crevasse.[27]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123 [dead link]
- ^ "The HJ/44/23 THE GOLDEN PILLAR". The HJ/44/23 THE GOLDEN PILLAR. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3.
- ^ Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
- ^ a b c "AAC Publications - The Golden Pillar: Spantik". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Spantik, Southeast Ridge". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Spantik, South Ridge". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Spantik". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Spantik British Route, Second Ascent and Variation". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - The International Spantik Expedition, Different Styles on the Golden Pillar". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Spantik". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Range, Spantik, New Route on Northwest Face". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - The Golden Peak". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "China Pakistan friendship expedition scales Spantik Peak. - Free Online Library". www.thefreelibrary.com. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "Uzma Yousaf becomes first Pakistani female to climb Spantik peak". 2017-08-02. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "Komal Uzair becomes second Pakistani woman to summit Spantik peak". www.geo.tv. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Western Karakoram, Spantik, Ascents". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ Rehman, Sajawal. "10 Year Old Pakistani Girl Becomes World's First to Peak a 7000m Mountain". propakistani.pk. Retrieved 21 July 2019.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Nanga Parbat, Nearly Complete Ski Descent; Spantik, First Ski Descent". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Fly and Climb: Paragliding to Karakoram Ascents Points to Many Possibilities". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "Spantik Movie – Sportif Aventurier Explorateur". Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Pakistan, Deaths in 2002". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ "Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visited Pakistan During 2006 : Articles : SummitPost". www.summitpost.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Pakistan During 2006 Compiled by Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Honorary Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan
- ^ "A third Japanese climber has died on a mountain in northern Pakistan in less than a month". AP News. 2024-07-04. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
- ^ Nagri, Jamil (15 June 2024). "Body of one of two missing Japanese climbers found at Spantik peak". DAWN.
- ^ News, A. B. C. "A third Japanese climber has died on a mountain in Pakistan in less than a month". ABC News. Retrieved 2024-07-09.
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- Dave Hancock - Climbing Spantik, The FTA trip Files (Perth, WA 2004)