Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined

The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

Men's combined
at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad
Olympic sport climbing
VenueAomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates3 August 2021 (qualification)
5 August 2021 (final)
Competitors20 from 15 nations
Winning Score28
Medalists
1st place, gold medalist(s) Alberto Ginés López  Spain
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Nathaniel Coleman  United States
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Jakob Schubert  Austria
2024 →

During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.[2]

Qualification

edit

Competition format

edit

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[3]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

edit

Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[4][5]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[6]

Records

edit

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

Speed records
World record   Veddriq Leonardo (INA) 5.208 Salt Lake City, United States 28 May 2021
Olympic record Not established

The following records were established during the competition:

Date Round Climber Nation Time Record
August 3 Speed Qualification Bassa Mawem   France 5.45[7] OR

Schedule

edit

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date[8] Time Round
Tuesday, 3 August 2021 17:00 Speed Qualification
18:00 Bouldering Qualification
21:10 Lead Qualification
Thursday, 5 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final
18:30 Bouldering Final
21:10 Lead Final

Results

edit

Qualification

edit

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.

Rank Climber Nation Speed[9] Bouldering[10] Lead[11] Total [12] Notes
A B CP 1 2 3 4 Results CP HR TFT CP
1 Mickaël Mawem   France 5.95 7.75 3 T2z2 T1z1 T1z1 z1 3T4z 4 5 1 28+ 2:24 11 33.00 Q
2 Tomoa Narasaki   Japan DNS 5.94 2 T2z1 T4z4 z1 z1 2T4z 6 7 2 26+ 2:11 14 56.00 Q
3 Colin Duffy   United States 6.23 6.85 6 T10z6 T7z6 2T2z 17 12 5 42+ 4:44 2 60.00 Q
4 Jakob Schubert   Austria 6.70 6.94 12 z9 z3 T2z1 1T3z 2 13 7 42+ 4:02 1 84.00 Q
5 Adam Ondra   Czech Republic 7.46 8.16 18 T4z4 z4 T3z3 2T3z 7 11 3 39+ 4 216.00 Q
6 Alberto Ginés López   Spain 6.48 6.32 7 T12z4 1T1z 12 4 14 41+ 3 294.00 Q
7 Bassa Mawem   France 5.45 OR 5.67 1 z4 0T1z 0 4 18 7 20 360.00 Q
8 Nathaniel Coleman   United States 6.51 6.52 10 z1 T4z3 z2 1T3z 4 6 11 39 5 550.00 Q
9 Alexander Megos   Germany 9.89 7.47 19 T2z1 z6 z7 z1 1T4z 2 15 6 36+ 6 684.00
10 Chon Jong-won   South Korea 6.21 Fall 5 z4 T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 10 10 26+ 2:34 16 800.00
11 Rishat Khaibullin   Kazakhstan 6.90 6.19 4 z3 0T1z 0 3 17 28+ 3:09 13 884.00
12 Jan Hojer   Germany 6.63 Fall 11 z2 T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 8 9 29+ 9 891.00
13 Aleksey Rubtsov   ROC 8.09 7.23 16 T6z3 T1z1 2T2z 7 4 4 26+ 2:29 15 960.00
14 Pan Yufei   China 8.63 7.59 20 T2z2 z12 z1 1T3z 2 15 8 36 7 1120.00
15 Michael Piccolruaz   Italy 6.33 6.46 8 T5z5 z2 1T2z 5 7 13 28+ 2:33 12 1248.00
16 Christopher Cosser   South Africa 6.48 7.55 9 z7 z8 0T2z 0 15 16 29 10 1440.00
17 Sean McColl   Canada 9.18 6.93 14 z2 z1 0T2z 0 3 15 35+ 8 1680.00
18 Kai Harada   Japan Fall 7.08 15 T4z1 z7 1T2z 4 8 12 25+ 17 3060.00
19 Ludovico Fossali   Italy 6.71 7.39 13 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 2:48 18 4563.00
20 Tom O'Halloran   Australia 7.34 12.20 17 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 3:58 19 6298.50

Final

edit
Rank Climber Nation Speed[13][14] Bouldering[15] Lead[16] Total [17]
Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals CP 1 2 3 Results CP HR CP
R T R T R T
  Alberto Ginés López   Spain 2 7.44 7 6.56 12 6.42 1 z1 z7 z1 0T3z 0 9 7 38+ 4 28
  Nathaniel Coleman   United States 4 6.45 6 6.21 10 Fall 6 T1z1 T3z2 z1 2T3z 4 4 1 34+ 5 30
  Jakob Schubert   Austria 3 9.18 6 6.76 9 W 7 T1z1 z5 z1 1T3z 1 7 5 Top 1 35
4 Tomoa Narasaki   Japan 3 6.11 8 6.02 12 7.82 2 T1z1 z3 z1 1T3z 1 5 3 33+ 6 36
5 Mickaël Mawem   France 4 6.36 8 7.05 11 6.47 3 T1z1 z1 z1 1T3z 1 3 2 23+ 7 42
6 Adam Ondra   Czech Republic 1 W 7 7.03 11 6.86 4 T2z1 z1 1T2z 2 2 6 42+ 2 48
7 Colin Duffy   United States 2 FS 5 W 10 6.35 5 T1z1 z3 z1 1T3z 1 5 4 40 3 60
8 Bassa Mawem*   France 1 DNS 5 DNS 9 DNS 8 DNS 8 DNS 8 512

* Injured and could not compete.[2]

References

edit
  1. ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  2. ^ a b "Climbing-Injury forces France's Bassa Mawem out of men's final". Reuters. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  3. ^ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  4. ^ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  5. ^ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
  6. ^ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  7. ^ "Sport climbing at Tokyo 2020: Records set at Olympic debut". Tokyo 2020. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  8. ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  9. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  10. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  11. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  12. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Qualification Results Summary" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  13. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Brackets" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  14. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Race Analysis" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  15. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Final" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  16. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.
  17. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.