Wikipedia

i-D

(Redirected from The Straight Up)
For the documents referred to as I-Ds, see Internet Draft.

i-D is a British magazine published biannually and dedicated to fashion, music, art, film and youth culture. The magazine was founded in 1980 by former British Vogue art director Terry Jones.[1][2] Originally published as a hand-stapled fanzine, it has since evolved into a glossy.[1][3]

i-D
Travis Scott on the cover of the spring 2021 issue
Editor-in-ChiefThom Bettridge
CategoriesFashion magazine
FrequencyBi-annual
FounderTerry Jones (i-D)
First issueAugust 1980
CompanyBedford Media
CountryUnited Kingdom
Based inLondon
LanguageEnglish
Websitei-d.co
ISSN0262-3579


The magazine's publication is currently on hold, in an aim to reposition the magazine.[4]

Details

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The magazine is known for its innovative photography and typography and as a training ground for fresh talent. Photographers Wolfgang Tillmans, Mario Testino, Terry Richardson, Craig McDean,[1] Nick Knight and Juergen Teller started their careers at i-D, as did Dylan Jones and Caryn Franklin. Other photographers that have contributed to i-D include Ellen von Unwerth, Robert Fairer, Kayt Jones, Sam Rock, and Petra Collins.

People who have appeared in i-D include Madonna, Grace Jones, Naomi Campbell, Sade, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Kanye West, Helmut Lang, Franz Ferdinand, Chloë Sevigny, Raf Simons, Jun Takahashi, Veronique Branquinho, Lily Cole, Giles Deacon, Timothee Chalamet, Dizzee Rascal, Scarlett Johansson, Rick Owens, Selena Gomez, and Rihanna.[5]

The wink and smile on each front cover—a graphic representation of the magazine's logo—are integral to the i-D identity.[6]

History

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i-D was launched in 1980 by Terry Jones. The first issue was priced at 50p, and 50 issues were sold. It was one of the first magazines to cover street fashion.[1]

Raf Simons edited the magazine's February 2001 issue.[7]

Avril Mair stepped down as editor in October 2004; she was replaced by Glenn Waldron.[8]

In 2012 Terry Jones sold the magazine to Vice Media; however, Jones and his wife Tricia Jones remained partners and partial shareholders.[9]

i-D France was launched in website form in 2015.[10][11]

In 2016, i-D Japan was launched as a print magazine published on a bi-annual basis. The publication's first cover featured Kiko Mizuhara.[12] The magazine's last print issue was published in 2019; however, it is still published digitally. Also in 2016, a Chinese edition of the magazine was launched on digital platforms with accounts on Weibo and WeChat.[13]

i-D Korea was launched as a digital-only publication in July 2021; Songin Han was appointed as the magazine's editor.[14]

In November 2021, the magazine's fashion editor Max Clark was suspended after more than a dozen women accused him of sending sexually inappropriate messages.[15] Clark denied the allegations.[16]

On 14 November 2023, Bedford Media acquired the magazine from Vice Media.[17] Bedford Media is financied by both Karlie Kloss and her husband Joshua Kushner.[18] Kloss was appointed CEO whilst Alastair (at the time Editor-in-Chief) became Chief Creative Officer and Global Editor-in-Chief of the magazine.[19] With the purchase, publication of the magazine was paused.[4]

The magazine's editor Alastair McKimm resigned from his role in February 2024.[20][4]

i-D's digital presence was relaunched in September 2024, with the website returning and a digital cover featuring Charli XCX and Troye Sivan.[21] Thom Bettridge was later announced as the magazine's new Editor-in-Chief, and the magazine will begin publishing again from March 2025 as a bi-annual publication.[22]

Editors

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Country Operation Editor-in-Chief Start year End year
United Kingdom (i-D) 1980–present Terry Jones 1980 2012
Dylan Jones 1986 1988
Caryn Franklin 1986 1988
Alix Sharkey 1988 1989
John Godfrey 1988 1990
Matthew Collin 1991 1994
Avril Mair 1994 2004[8]
Glenn Waldron 2004[8] 2006[23]
Ben Reardon 2006 2010[24]
Holly Shackleton 2010[25] 2019[26]
Alastair McKimm 2019[27] 2024[27]
Thom Bettridge 2024 present[22]
Japan (i-D Japan) 1991–1993[28] Kiyoshi Yoshizawa 1991[28] 1993
2016–2019[29]

Editions

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i-D operates digitally in Japan, South Korea and the United Kingdom. The magazine previously had a digital presence in Australia,[7] China, France,[11] Germany, Italy,[7] Latin America, Mexico,[11] Netherlands, New Zealand,[7] Poland,[11] Spain,[7] and the United States.

The Straight Up

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The Straight-Up is a documentary style of photography pioneered by Terry Jones, founder and editor-in-chief of i-D magazine, in 1977. Taking its name from a West Country expression meaning 'tell it like it is', a Straight-Up typically captures a head-to-toe portrait of someone street cast with great personal style, often accompanied by a short question-and-answer defining their life, likes and dislikes.

In 1977, inspired by August Sander's social documentary portraits and Irving Penn's Small Trade series, Jones commissioned British photographer Steve Johnston to photograph London punks head-to-toe against a plain white wall on the Kings Road. Jones intended the pictures to run as a cultural piece in British Vogue, where he then worked as art director.[1] The photographs however were considered too revolutionary, so Jones ran the images in a book he was art directing called Not Another Punk Book, published by Aurum Press.[30] These Straight-Ups went on to form the basis of i-D, a hand-stapled fanzine founded by Jones in 1980.[31] As i-D grew from a fanzine into a fashion magazine, the Straight-Up style of photography continued, culminating in an entire issue of the magazine dedicated to the photographic style in August 2003 (The Straight-Up Issue, No. 234). Today Straight-Ups continue to be featured in i-D.[32]

Publications

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  • A Decade of i-Deas, the Encyclopaedia of the '80s. Compiled and Produced by i-D Magazine. Edited by John Godfrey. London: Penguin, 1990. ISBN 0-14-012952-9.
  • Family Future Positive. Terry and Tricia Jones, and Avril Mair. London: i-D, 1998. ISBN 978-0-9512928-0-8.
  • Fashion Now. i-D selects the world's 150 most important designers. Terry Jones and Avril Mair. Cologne: Taschen, 2003. ISBN 3-8228-2187-X.
  • Fashion Now 2. i-D selects the world's 160 most important designers. Terry Jones and Susie Rushton. Cologne: Taschen, 2005. ISBN 3-8228-4241-9.
  • i-D: Wink + Smile! The First Forty Years. Rizzoli, 2022. ISBN 978-0847871780
  • Safe+Sound. Terry and Tricia Jones. London: i-D, 2007. ISBN 978-0-9552174-1-8.
  • SMILE i-D. Fashion and Style. 20 years of i-D magazine. Terry Jones. London: i-D / Cologne: Taschen, 2000. ISBN 3-8228-5778-5.

Exhibitions

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  • Smile i-D. Initially launched in 2001 for i-D's 20th birthday, Smile i-D highlighted the spirit of the magazine. Since then, the show toured internationally, growing with each destination to include new material. Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, London, April 2001; Armani flagship store, Milan, June 2001; Espace Cardin, Paris, October 2001; Art Directors Club, New York, November 2001; El Dorrego, Buenos Aires, October/November 2003; Laboratorio Arte Alameda, Mexico City, February 2004; Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Santiago, Chile, April 2004; Corp Banca, Caracas, July 2004; "+7.095.Art" gallery, Moscow, April 2007.
  • i-Dentity. The exhibition focused on identity, using still images, film, sound and smell. Fashion and Textile Museum, London, October 2005 (For i-D's 25th anniversary)[1] then toured to New York, February 2006; Hong Kong, April 2006; Tokyo, April 2006; Beijing, May 2006.
  • Safe+Sound. London College of Fashion, London, February 2007; CP Company, Milan, April 2007.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f "i-D magazine: Identity parade". The Independent. London. 15 October 2005. Retrieved 19 May 2015.
  2. ^ Ane Lynge-Jorlén (2012). "Between Frivolity and Art: Contemporary Niche Fashion Magazines". Fashion Theory. 16 (1): 7–28. doi:10.2752/175174112X13183318404104. S2CID 191600010.
  3. ^ Brook, Stephen (2009-05-13). "Style magazine i-D to scale back to six issues a year". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  4. ^ a b c Douglass, Rachel (2024-02-15). "Editor-in-chief of i-D Magazine to step down, publication on pause". FashionUnited. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  5. ^ "Liv Fontaine | i-D". i-D. Retrieved 15 September 2015.
  6. ^ "about us". I-d.
  7. ^ a b c d e Zhang, Tianwei (2023-02-23). "i-D Issues Zine Dedicated to Raf Simons With Spring Issue". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  8. ^ a b c Timms, Dominic (2004-11-10). "Waldron takes reins at i-D". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  9. ^ Sweney, Mark (2012-12-18). "Vice Media buys style publication i-D". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  10. ^ FR, FashionNetwork com. "Le magazine branché i-D se décline sur le Web en version française". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  11. ^ a b c d Guilbault, Laure (2015-07-24). "I-D Set to Launch in France". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  12. ^ Wetherille, Kelly (2016-05-23). "i-D Launches Japanese Edition". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  13. ^ Menendez, Enrique (18 August 2016). "Will Digital Media Break China's Fashion Magazine Oligarchy?". The Business of Fashion.
  14. ^ Zhang, Tianwei (2021-07-07). "i-D Launches South Korean Edition, Opens Base in Seoul". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  15. ^ "Fashion editor at Vice's i-D magazine suspended over sexual misconduct claims". The Guardian. 11 November 2021. Retrieved 2021-11-11.
  16. ^ "Fashion magazine suspends senior editor over sexual harassment claims". The Daily Telegraph. 11 November 2021. Retrieved 2 April 2022.
  17. ^ Guthrie, Marisa (2023-11-14). "Karlie Kloss Acquires i-D Magazine From Vice Media". WWD. Retrieved 2023-11-14.
  18. ^ Sherman, Lauren (2024-06-10). "Profit & Kloss". Puck. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  19. ^ Pearl, Diana (2023-11-14). "Karlie Kloss Is Acquiring i-D Magazine". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 2023-11-14.
  20. ^ Fernandez, Chantal (2024-02-15). "What's Going on at i-D?". The Cut. Retrieved 2024-05-01.
  21. ^ Mohammed, Hikmat (2024-09-04). "i-D Magazine Relaunches Website With Charli XCX, Troye Sivan on Digital Cover". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16. After a seven-month hiatus i-D Magazine is back online with Charli XCX and Troye Sivan on the homepage of its newly relaunched website.
  22. ^ a b Carbone, Simone Stern (17 September 2024). "i-D Magazine Appoints Thom Bettridge Editor in Chief". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 17 September 2024.
  23. ^ "Glenn Waldron". www.doollee.com. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  24. ^ Luft, Oliver (2010-08-02). "i-D editor Ben Reardon to take over at GQ Style". Press Gazette. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  25. ^ Staff, W. W. D. (2010-08-10). "Constance White Exits eBay… I-D's New Editor… From the Heart…". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  26. ^ Conti, Samantha (2019-02-28). "Holly Shackleton Named Editor in Chief of Vogue International". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  27. ^ a b "Alastair McKimm Is Leaving i-D Magazine". The Business of Fashion. 2024-02-14. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  28. ^ a b "i-D Japan アイディー・ジャパン 1991年 10月号【創刊号】 / 編：吉澤潔 | 小宮山書店 KOMIYAMA TOKYO | 神保町 古書・美術作品の販売、買取". www.book-komiyama.co.jp. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  29. ^ Wetherille, Kelly (2016-05-23). "i-D Launches Japanese Edition". WWD. Retrieved 2024-09-16.
  30. ^ "The Iconoclastic Terry Jones, the Art Director Who Started Street Style Culture". W Magazine. 2 August 2016.
  31. ^ "Hint Fashion Magazine -- Hinterview: Terry Jones". www.hintmag.com. Archived from the original on 2006-03-16.
  32. ^ "Defining Style Making i-D: An Interview with Terry Jones: Voice: AIGA Journal of Design: Writing: AIGA". www.aiga.org. Archived from the original on 2007-04-05.

Further reading

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