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Tom Longstaff

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Tom George Longstaff (15 January 1875 – 26 June 1964)[1] was an English medical doctor, explorer and mountaineer, most famous for being the first person to climb a summit of over 7,000 metres in elevation, Trisul, in the India/Pakistan Himalayas in 1907.[2] He also made important explorations and climbs in Tibet, Nepal, the Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Greenland, and Baffin Island.[3] He was a founding member of The Alpine Ski Club in 1908 and the Himalayan Club (1929),[4] was elected as an Honorary Member of the Climbers Club in 1932 and was its President from 1933–1935[5] and was president of the (British) Alpine Club from 1947 to 1949.[6]

Tom Longstaff
FRGS
Tom George Longstaff on 1922 Everest expedition
Longstaff on 1922 Everest expedition
Personal information
Born(1875-01-15)15 January 1875[1]
Hull, England
Died26 June 1964(1964-06-26) (aged 89)
Achiltibuie, Scotland
Occupation(s)explorer, mountaineer, ornithologist and medical doctor
Parent
Climbing career
Known for
First ascents

Early life

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Longstaff was the eldest son of Lt-Col. Llewellyn W. Longstaff OBE of Wimbledon, the first and most generous supporter of Captain Scott's National Antarctic Expedition.[7] He was educated at Eton College, Christ Church, Oxford, and St Thomas' Hospital, London.[7]

War service

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Longstaff was commissioned into the 1/7th Battalion of the Hampshire Regiment in 1914 and served on the General Staff at Army Headquarters, Simla, 1915–1916. He was Assistant Commandant of the Gilgit Corps of Scouts, Frontier Militia, and Special Assistant at Fort Gupis to the Political Agent in Gilgit, from 1916, and was promoted Captain in 1917, retiring from the service in 1918.[7]

During the Second World War, he served with the 7th and 13th Battalion of the KRRC from 1939 to 1941.

Mountaineer

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Photograph from "The assault on Mount Everest, 1922, C. G. Bruce,[8] facing page 46 "The Expedition at base Camp." Left to right, back row: Henry Morshead, Geoffrey Bruce, John Noel, Arthur Wakefield, Howard Somervell, John Morris, Teddy Norton. Front row: George Mallory, George Finch,Tom Longstaff, Charles Bruce, Bill Strutt, Colin Crawford.

Longstaff climbed in the Alps, the Caucasus,[9] Rocky Mountains, Greenland, Spitsbergen, Himalayas and the Selkirks[10] (with Wheeler).

Before the Great War, he travelled in Tibet in 1905, ascended Trisul in the Himalayas, 1907,[11] and in 1908 he was awarded the Gill Memorial by the Royal Geographical Society for his work in the Himalaya and Tibet.[7]

He went on to explore the Siachen Glacier and, with A.M. Slingsby, he discovered the peaks of Teram Kangri in 1909.[12] It has been written that the map he made during this journey "completely altered the topography as shown on older maps".[2]

After the war, he took part in an Oxford University Expedition to Spitsbergen in 1921 with Odell[13] and was chief medical officer and naturalist on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.[8][14] He returned to Spitsbergen in 1923 and to the Garhwal Himalaya in 1927. He led the Oxford University Expedition to Greenland in 1928[15] and the same year was awarded the Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society for his work in the Himalaya, especially his discovery of the Siachen Glacier. In Greenland again, 1931 and 1934, and Baffin Island, 1934 with Wordie and others.[16]

When there were difficulties financing the 1938 Everest expedition Longstaff offered to underwrite the cost - on condition that the expedition was led by either Tilman or Shipton, that there would be no advance publicity and that, where possible, the climbers would each pay their own way.[17]

He was a well respected amateur ornithologist[18] and in 1933 he was one of eleven people[a] involved in the appeal that led to the foundation of the British Trust for Ornithology (BTO), an organisation for the study of birds in the British Isles.[19]

He lived at Achiltibuie, in the Highlands of Scotland, where he died at the age of eighty-nine on 26 June 1964.[4]

Notes

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  1. ^ The letter was signed:

References

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  1. ^ a b "Obituary – Tom George Longstaff" (PDF). Polar Record. #12 (81): 776–777. September 1965. ISSN 0032-2474. Retrieved 9 July 2024.
  2. ^ a b Mason, Kenneth (1955). Abode of the Snow. Rupert Hart-Davis. p. 117. Reprinted 1987 by Diadem Books, ISBN 978-0-906371-91-6
  3. ^ Longstaff, Tom (1951). This My Voyage. John Murray. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  4. ^ a b Odell, Noel E. (1964). "Obituary – Tom G Longstaff". Himalayan Journal. #25: 191–195. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  5. ^ Neill, John (1965). "Obituary: T. G. Longstaff". Climbers Club Journal. #16: 291–292.
  6. ^ Lloyd, Peter; Somervell, T. H.; Patey, Tom W.; Blakeney, T. S. (1964). "In Memoriam – Tom George Longstaff" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #69 (309): 322–326. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  7. ^ a b c d Shipton, Eric (September 1965). "Obituary: Dr T. G. Longstaff". Geographical Journal. #130 (3): 443–444. ISSN 0016-7398. JSTOR 1794819. Retrieved 9 July 2024.
  8. ^ a b Bruce, Charles Granville (1924). The Assault on Mount Everest, 1922. Longmans, Green & Co. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  9. ^ "New Expeditions in 1903 : Caucasus" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #21: 567–574. 1903. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  10. ^ Wheeler, Arthur Oliver (1912). The Selkirk Mountains : a guide for mountain climbers and pilgrims. Stovel Company. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  11. ^ Longstaff, Tom (1908). "Mountaineering in Garwhal" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #24 (180): 107–133. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 9 July 2024.
  12. ^ Longstaff, Tom (1911). "The Saltoro Pass" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #25 (102): 485–488. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  13. ^ Frazer, R. A. (November 1922). "The Topographical Work of the Oxford University Expedition to Spitsbergen (1921)". Geographical Journal. #60 (5): 321–334. Bibcode:1922GeogJ..60..321F. doi:10.2307/1780537. ISSN 0016-7398. JSTOR 1780537. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  14. ^ Aitken, William McKay (1983). "The 1922 Everest diary of Dr TG Longstaff". Himalayan Journal. #39: 152–155. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  15. ^ Longstaff, T. G.; Ritchie, M. R. W. (July 1929). "The Oxford University Expedition to Greenland, 1928". Geographical Journal. #74 (1): 61–69. Bibcode:1929GeogJ..74...61L. doi:10.2307/1784946. ISSN 0016-7398. JSTOR 1784946. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  16. ^ Longstaff, T. G. (1935). "The Shores of Baffin Bay" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #47: 49–58. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  17. ^ Unsworth, Walter (1981). Everest. Allen Lane. p. 212. ISBN 9780713911084.
  18. ^ Fisher, James (April 1965). "Obituaries – Tom George Longstaff 15 January 1875–26 June 1964". International Journal of Avian Science. #107 (2): 259–260. doi:10.1111/j.1474-919X.1965.tb07306.x. ISSN 1474-919X. Retrieved 9 July 2024.
  19. ^ "Observers of Birds" (PDF). The Times. 1 July 1933.
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