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2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition34th
Events
21
  • 6 Boulder
    7 Lead
    7 Speed
    1 Boulder & Lead Combined
Locations
12
Dates8 April – 22 October 2022
Lead
MenSlovenia Luka Potočar
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
TeamJapan Japan
Boulder
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
TeamJapan Japan
Speed
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenPoland Aleksandra Kałucka
TeamIndonesia Indonesia
← 2021
2023 →

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Scheduling

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The IFSC announced the 2022 World Cup schedule in October 2021. The series was initially scheduled to open in Moscow instead of the traditional curtain-raiser in Meiringen, Switzerland, and repeats the back-to-back events held in Salt Lake City, introduced in the 2021 series[1] The IFSC followed up in December 2021 with an announcement of Koper, Slovenia as a first-time host city, a change from the traditional host city of Kranj, Slovenia which hosted a World Cup event 25 times between 1996 and 2021, as well as Wujiang as the last stop in the circuit.[2]

On 25 February 2022, the IFSC announced the suspension of the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Moscow scheduled for April, following the Russian invasion of Ukraine.[3] On 22 March 2022, the federation announced that the suspended Moscow Boulder World Cup event was rescheduled to take place in Brixen, Italy from 10 to 12 June 2022.[4]

On 24 March 2022, the IFSC announced that the World Cup originally scheduled to take place in Bali, Indonesia, would now take place in Jakarta.[5]

On 20 May 2022, the IFSC announced the cancellation of two World Cup events in China, Wujiang (Lead & Speed) from 30 September to 2 October and Chongqing (Lead & Boulder) from 6 to 9 October, citing concerns over the COVID-19 pandemic.[6]

Later in May, the federation announced that the Boulder World Cup event originally scheduled for Japan in May would be rescheduled as a Boulder & Lead World Cup in Morioka-Iwate, Japan from 20 to 22 October. This would be the first IFSC event to feature the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[7]

In July, the IFSC announced a Lead & Speed World Cup to take place 9 to 11 September in Edinburgh, to replace the previously canceled Wujiang World Cup. Edinburgh had most recently hosted a World Cup in 2017.[8]

Overview

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No. Dates Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 8–10 April   Meiringen B M   Tomoa Narasaki 2T3Z 3 6   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3Z 5 19   Mejdi Schalck 2T3Z 7 9
W   Janja Garnbret 4T4Z 5 5   Natalia Grossman 3T4Z 8 16   Andrea Kümin 1T2Z 1 3
2 6–8 May   Seoul B M   Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 11 4   Tomoa Narasaki 4T4Z 12 8   Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4Z 6 7
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 7 5   Oriane Bertone 3T4Z 5 5   Brooke Raboutou 3T3Z 6 5
S M   Veddriq Leonardo 6.965   Kiromal Katibin false start   Rahmad Adi Mulyono 5.587
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.723   Emma Hunt 7.236   Aleksandra Kałucka 7.249
3 20–22 May   Salt Lake City B M   Mejdi Schalck 4T4Z 9 6   Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 11 10   Rei Kawamata 3T4Z 14 12
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 9 9   Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 5 14   Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 9 18
S M   Kiromal Katibin 5.643   Noah Bratschi fall   Veddriq Leonardo 5.595
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.934   Aleksandra Kałucka 7.838   Natalia Kałucka 7.521
4 27–29 May   Salt Lake City B M   Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 5 5   Anze Peharc 4T4Z 5 5   Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 9 8
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 10 4   Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 5 5   Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 6 4
S M   Veddriq Leonardo 6.330   Tobias Plangger fall   Ludovico Fossali 5.490
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.548   Emma Hunt fall   Aleksandra Kałucka 7.963
5 10–12 June   Brixen[Note 1] B M   Yannick Flohé 2T4Z 5 9   Maximillian Milne 2T3Z 6 9   Tomoa Narasaki 1T4Z 4 9
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 6 5   Hannah Meul 4T4Z 6 6   Luo Zhilu 2T4Z 5 9
6 22–25 June   Innsbruck B M   Colin Duffy 3T4Z 12 9   Lee Dohyun 2T4Z 10 12   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4Z 10 14
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 5 5   Hannah Meul 4T4Z 7 6   Miho Nonaka 2T2Z 3 2
L M   Colin Duffy 38+   Ao Yurikusa 37+   Jesse Grupper 37+
W   Janja Garnbret 39+   Seo Chae-hyun 27+   Brooke Raboutou 27+
7 30 June–2 July   Villars L M   Taisei Homma 36+   Jesse Grupper 34+   Colin Duffy 34
W   Janja Garnbret TOP   Brooke Raboutou 37+   Natalia Grossman 35+
S M   Long Jianguo 5.23   Wu Peng 5.24   Long Jinbao 5.16
W   Deng Lijuan 6.87   Niu Di 8.22   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 7.06
8 8–10 July   Chamonix L M   Adam Ondra 39+   Taisei Homma 39+   Sean Bailey 29+
W   Janja Garnbret TOP   Laura Rogora TOP   Seo Chae-hyun TOP
S M   Long Jinbao 5.11   Erik Noya Cardona 5.49   Aspar Aspar 5.53
W   Deng Lijuan 6.55   Aleksandra Kałucka 6.64   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.82
9 22–23 July   Briançon L M   Jesse Grupper 37   Taisei Homma 35+   Alexander Megos 35+
W   Janja Garnbret 42+   Seo Chae-hyun 41+   Natalia Grossman 41
10 2–3 September   Koper L M   Luka Potočar 30+   Sascha Lehmann 30+   Yannick Flohé 29+
W   Ai Mori 30+   Janja Garnbret 27+   Brooke Raboutou 23+
11 9–11 September   Edinburgh[Note 2] L M   Jesse Grupper TOP   Luka Potočar 31+   Toby Roberts 30+
W   Ai Mori TOP   Janja Garnbret TOP   Seo Chae-hyun 42+
S M   Samuel Watson 5.97   Long Jinbao 6.93   Erik Noya Cardona wc
W   Aleksandra Kałucka 7.47   Natalia Kałucka fall   Emma Hunt 7.28
12 24–26 September   Jakarta[Note 3]
 L M   Ao Yurikusa 29   Masahiro Higuchi 28   Sebastian Halenke 28
W   Janja Garnbret TOP   Seo Chae-hyun 40   Mia Krampl 35+
S M   Aspar Aspar 5.39   Kiromal Katibin 5.75   Cao Long 5.16
W   Deng Lijuan 6.66   Natalia Kałucka 7.20   Aleksandra Kałucka 6.81
13 20–22 October   Morioka-Iwate B&L M   Tomoa Narasaki 156.4   Yoshiyuki Ogata 138.4   Kokoro Fujii 132.6
W   Ai Mori 190.9   Natalia Grossman 171.2   Seo Chae-hyun 131.8
OVERALL B M   Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990   Tomoa Narasaki 3405   Kokoro Fujii 3110
W   Natalia Grossman 5000   Miho Nonaka 3210   Brooke Raboutou 2940
L M   Luka Potočar 3860   Taisei Homma 3835   Jesse Grupper 3812
W   Janja Garnbret 5805   Seo Chae-hyun 4405   Natalia Grossman 3370
S M   Veddriq Leonardo 4455   Kiromal Katibin 4080   Long Jinbao 3105
W   Aleksandra Kałucka 4680   Emma Hunt 3950   Natalia Kałucka 3820
NATIONAL TEAMS B A   Japan 20783   United States 15223   France 10175.5
L A   Japan 21355   Slovenia 18273.66   United States 16598
S A   Indonesia 17135   Poland 15347   China 15203

[1]

  1. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Moscow, Russia on 1–3 April.
  2. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Wujiang from 30 September to 2 October.
  3. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Bali.

Competition highlights

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In the speed competition at the Seoul World Cup on 6 May, Indonesia's Kiromal Katibin and Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław set the world record for their respective genders' at 5.17 seconds and 6.64 seconds, respectively.[9] Two weeks later, Katibin and Mirosław broke their own records in Salt Lake City, at 5.10 seconds and 6.53 seconds, respectively.[10] Katibin broke his own record twice on 30 June during the qualifying round at Villars, posting times of 5.09, and then 5.04 seconds.[11] He broke his record again on 8 July at Chamonix with a time of 5.009.[12]

 
Natalia Grossman at the Brixen World Cup in June 2022

Natalia Grossman of the United States repeated her women's bouldering overall series win with five straight gold medals, only missing the gold when she finished second to Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, who sat out most of the bouldering season.[13] Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan also repeated as the overall bouldering series winner, and he was joined by fellow Japanese climbers Tomoa Narasaki with the silver and Kokoro Fujii with the bronze, completing a Japanese sweep of the bouldering series podium.[14]

At Innsbruck in June, Colin Duffy of the United States won both the bouldering and lead gold medals, becoming the first male athlete to win both disciplines in the same IFSC World Cup event.[15]

Bouldering

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[16]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1   Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990 2. 805 3. 690 2. 805 1. 1000 5. (545) 3. 690
2   Tomoa Narasaki 3405 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455 — 3. 690 7. 455
3   Kokoro Fujii 3110 6. 495 1. 1000 14. (260) 3. 690 9. 380 5. 545
4   Yannick Flohé 2475 — — 5. 545 7. 435 1. 1000 6. 495
5   Mejdi Schalck 2294 3. 690 7. 455 1. 1000 21. 137.5 — 43. 11.5
6   Maximillian Milne 2215 8. 415 8. 415 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 14. (260)
7   Lee Dohyun 2128.5 41. 13.5 10. 350 — 10. 350 4. 610 2. 805
8   Colin Duffy 1976 5. 545 — 21. 137.5 13. 280 41. 13.5 1. 1000
9   Chon Jong-won 1957.5 21. 112.5 12. 300 — 4. 610 11. 325 4. 610
10   Rei Kawamata 1774.5 31. 39.5 — 3. 690 5. 545 14. 260 15. 240

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[16]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1   Natalia Grossman 5000 2. (805) 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2   Miho Nonaka 3210 26. (68) 8. 415 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690
3   Brooke Raboutou 2940 12. 300 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 — 7. 455
4   Futaba Ito 2560 5. 545 15. (240) 9. 380 4. 610 8. 415 4. 610
5   Hannah Meul 2345 7. 455 — 13. 280 — 2. 805 2. 805
6   Oriane Bertone 2316.5 4. 610 2. 805 7. 455 8. 415 — 33. 31.5
7   Jessica Pilz 2215 18. (185) 7. 455 4. 610 13. 280 7. 455 8. 415
8   Staša Gejo 2195 6. 495 4. 610 8. 415 11. 325 10. 350 16. (220)
9   Seo Chae-hyun 1930 17. (205) 14. 260 5. 545 12. 300 13. 280 5. 545
10   Camilla Moroni 1820 13. 280 5. 545 6. 495 17. (205) 16. 220 13. 280

* = Joint place with another athlete

Speed

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Main article: Speed climbing at the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[17]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Edinburgh Jakarta
1   Veddriq Leonardo 4455 1. 1000 3. 690 1. 1000 4. 610 4. 610 — 5. 545
2   Kiromal Katibin 4080 2. 805 1. 1000 5. 545 5. 545 9. 380 — 2. 805
3   Long Jinbao 3105 — — — 3. 690 1. 1000 2. 805 4. 610
4   Erik Noya Cardona 2955 11. 325 9. 380 7. 455 13. (280) 2. 805 3. 690 12. 300
5   Samuel Watson 2725 16. 220 8. 415 8. 415 12. 220 58. (5) 1. 1000 7. 455
6   Ludovico Fossali 2534 4. 610 4. 610 3. 690 12. 300 15. 240 31. (42) 26. 84
7   John Brosler 2460 38. (18) 5. 545 6. 495 7. 455 11. 325 7. 455 18. 185
8   Long Jianguo 2380 — — — 1. 1000 7. 455 5. 545 9. 380
9   Aspar Jaelolo 2245 10. 350 — — 17. 205 3. 690 — 1. 1000
10   Guillaume Moro 2115 7. 455 11. 325 12. 300 8. 415 51. (7) 9. 380 15. 240

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[17]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Edinburgh Jakarta
1   Aleksandra Kałucka 4680 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 9. (380) 2. 805 1. 1000 3. 690
2   Emma Hunt 3950 2. 805 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 — 3. 690 5. 545
3   Natalia Kałucka 3820 13. (280) 3. 690 4. 610 7. 455 7. 455 2. 805 2. 805
4   Deng Lijuan 3380 — — — 1. 1000 1. 1000 9. 380 1. 1000
5   Aleksandra Mirosław 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 — — — —
6   Niu Di 2385 — — — 2. 805 6. 495 6. 475* 4. 610
7   Capucine Viglione 2365 6. 495 10. 350 7. 455 8. 415 10. 350 12. 300 15. (240)
8   Patrycja Chudziak 2345 11. 325 6. 495 9. 380 12. 300 12. 300 5. 545 18. (185)
9   Aurelia Sarisson 2210 14. 260 5. 545 32. (37) 10. 350 9. 380 11. 325 10. 350
10   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 2140 9. 380 — — 3. 690 3. 690 — 9. 380

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[18]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Edinburgh Jakarta
1   Luka Potočar 3860 4. 610 11. (325) 4. 610 9. 380 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455
2   Taisei Homma 3835 9. 380 1. 1000 2. 805 2. 805 6. 495 10. 350 12. (300)
3   Jesse Grupper 3812 3. 690 2. 805 35. (27) 1. 1000 32. 37 1. 1000 13. 280
4   Ao Yurikusa 3239 2. 805 8. 415 28. (63) 26. 84 4. 610 11. 325 1. 1000
5   Yannick Flohé 2910 7. 455 4. 610 5. 545 4. 610 3. 690 - -
6   Colin Duffy 2845 1. 1000 3. 690 20. 155 5. 545 - 7. 455 -
7   Satone Yoshida 2660 6. 495 5. 545 9. 380 23. (120) 8. 415 13. 280 5. 545
8   Sascha Lehmann 2635 10. 350 19. (170) 8. 415 10. 350 2. 805 6. 495 16. 220
9   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2540 12. 300 6. 495 33. (33) 6. 495 7. 455 8. 415 9. 380
10   Masahiro Higuchi 2295 31. (37.33)* 20. 155 17. 205 14. 260 11. 325 5. 545 2. 805

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[18]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Edinburgh Jakarta
1   Janja Garnbret 5805 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 2. 805 2. (805) 1. 1000
2   Seo Chae-hyun 4405 2. 805 6. (495) 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690 2. 805
3   Natalia Grossman 3370 6. 495 3. 690 6. 495 3. 690 7. 455 5. 545 -
4   Laura Rogora 3345 4. 610 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 17. (205) 13. 280 5. 545
5   Brooke Raboutou 3250 3. 690 2. 805 7. 455 4. 610 3. 690 - -
6   Natsuki Tanii 3075 5. 545 8. 415 5. 545 5. 545 13. (280) 4. 610 8. 415
7   Mia Krampl 2385 22. 125* 9. 380 8. 415 13. 280 6. 495 - 3. 690
8   Ryu Nakagawa 2320 12. 300 7. 455 23. (120) 8. 415 15. 240 7. 455 7. 455
9   Vita Lukan 2235 7. 455 17. (205) 16. 220 7. 455 10. 350 14. 260 6. 495
10   Jessica Pilz 2149 8. 415 26. 84 4. 610 - 5. 545 6. 495 -

* = Joint place with another athlete

Season podium table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Slovenia (SLO)2002
2  Japan (JPN)1315
3  United States (USA)1135
4  Indonesia (INA)1102
5  Poland (POL)1012
6  South Korea (KOR)0101
7  China (CHN)0011
Totals (7 entries)66618

Medal table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  United States (USA)1081028
2  Japan (JPN)99826
3  Slovenia (SLO)74112
4  China (CHN)53311
5  Poland (POL)44412
6  Indonesia (INA)42511
7  Germany (GER)1236
8  France (FRA)1113
9  Czech Republic (CZE)1001
10  South Korea (KOR)0437
11  Great Britain (GBR)0112
  Italy (ITA)0112
  Spain (ESP)0112
  Switzerland (SWI)0112
15  Austria (AUT)0101
Totals (15 entries)424242126

References

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  1. ^ a b "IFSC PRESENTS THE 2022 CALENDAR" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 13 October 2021.
  2. ^ "KOPER, SLOVENIA, AND WUJIANG, CHINA, TO HOST IFSC WORLD CUP COMPETITIONS IN 2022" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 December 2021. Retrieved 14 December 2021.
  3. ^ "IFSC SUSPENDS WORLD CUP IN MOSCOW" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 25 February 2022. Retrieved 25 February 2022.
  4. ^ "BRIXEN, ITALY TO HOST RESCHEDULED IFSC BOULDER WORLD CUP IN JUNE" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 22 March 2022. Retrieved 23 March 2022.
  5. ^ "INDONESIAN LEG OF IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES 2022 MOVED TO JAKARTA" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 24 March 2022. Retrieved 31 March 2022.
  6. ^ "Two IFSC World Cups cancelled in China due to pandemic". Planet Mountain. 20 May 2022.
  7. ^ "JAPAN TO HOST IFSC BOULDER & LEAD WORLD CUP THIS FALL" (Press release). IFSC. 25 May 2022.
  8. ^ "IFSC ANNOUNCES REARRANGED WORLD CUP EVENT IN EDINBURGH" (Press release). IFSC. 4 July 2022. Retrieved 5 July 2022.
  9. ^ Tulloch, Ash (6 May 2022). "Aleksandra Miroslaw and Leonardo Veddriq triumph in speed event at World Cup in Seoul". Olympics.com. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  10. ^ Tulloch, Ash (27 May 2022). "Aleksandra Miroslaw sets third straight world record on her way to winning speed event in Salt Lake City". Olympics.com. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  11. ^ Burgman, John (1 July 2022). "World Record Demolished—Is Climbing's "4-minute Mile" Within Grasp?". Climbing. Retrieved 5 July 2022.
  12. ^ "L'Indonésien Kiromal Katibin bat encore le record du monde d'escalade de vitesse et frôle la barre des 5 secondes". L'Équipe (in French). 8 July 2022. Retrieved 8 July 2022.
  13. ^ Walker, Noah (24 June 2022). "Natalia Grossman Earns Fifth Consecutive Boulder World Cup Gold Medal". Gripped. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  14. ^ "Sport climbing: Yoshiyuki Ogata crowned season champion, Japan dominates". Mainichi Japan. 24 June 2022. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  15. ^ Walker, Noah (June 26, 2022). "Janja Garnbret Returns and Colin Duffy Makes IFSC History at Innsbruck World Cup". Gripped. Retrieved June 27, 2022.
  16. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.
  17. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.
  18. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-07-10.
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