The Andre Walker Hair Typing System, also known as The Hair Chart, is a classification system for hair types created in the 1990s by Oprah Winfrey's stylist Andre Walker.[1][2][3] It was originally created to market Walker's line of hair care products but has since been widely adopted as a hair type classification system.[4][5][6] Walker's system includes images of each hair type to aid classification.[7][8][9][10] The system has been criticized for an apparent hierarchy which values Caucasian hair over other hair types. In 2018 the system was the subject of episodes of the podcasts 99% Invisible and The Stoop.[2][11]
Types
editThe system is split into four types with subtypes labeled A, B and C for some of the types.[12][13][14] The system has added new subtypes since its original version to Type 1.[15][2][16][17]
| Type | Hair texture | Hair description |
|---|---|---|
| 1a | Straight (fine) | Hard to hold a curl, hair tends to be oily, hard to damage. |
| 1b | Straight (medium) | Has much body. (i.e. more volume, more full). |
| 1c | Straight (coarse) | Hard to curl (i.e. bone straight). |
| 2a | Wavy (loose waves) | Can accomplish various styles. Loose "S" pattern. Hair sticks close to the head. |
| 2b | Wavy (defined waves) | A bit resistant to styling. Hair has more of a defined "S" pattern. Hair tends to be frizzy. |
| 2c | Wavy (wide waves) | Hair has wider waves. Resistant to styling. Hair tends to be frizzy. |
| 3a | Curly (loose curls) | Thick and full with much body. Definite curl pattern. Hair tends to be frizzy. Can have a combination texture. |
| 3b | Curly (tight curls) | Medium amount of space of the curls. Can have a combined texture. |
| 3c | Curly (corkscrews) | Tight curls in corkscrews. The curls are very tightly curled. |
| 4a | Kinky-coily (defined coil) | Tightly coiled. Has a very defined O-shaped pattern. |
| 4b | Kinky-coily (z coil) | Tightly coiled. Little less defined kink pattern. Has more of a Z-shaped pattern. |
| 4c | Kinky-coily (tight coil) | Tightly coiled. Almost no visible defined kink pattern, unless seen from up close. Has more of a very tight O-shaped pattern. |
Evaluation
editThere has been a lot of debate in the black/curly hair community over the validity of the classification.[18] The Walker system has been judged an improvement on some earlier systems that ranked black hair as less desirable, but is criticized for not taking into account the full variation in density and scalp types or that people's hair can vary on different parts of their heads.[19]
Research in the International Journal of Women's Dermatology has suggested Walker's curl-classification system may be useful in conversations about alopecia and other health conditions.[20]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "Andre Walker hair typing system - Women Health Info Blog". Women Health Info Blog. 2017-02-01. Retrieved 2018-04-25.
- ^ a b c "The Hair Chart - 99% Invisible". 99% Invisible. Retrieved 2018-04-25.
- ^ "Q&A with Andre Walker". Oprah.com. Retrieved 2018-04-25.
- ^ "The Controversial History of the Hair Typing System". Byrdie. Retrieved 2024-10-14.
- ^ "Towards Creation of a Curl Pattern Recognition System". Int'l Conf. IP, Comp. Vision, and Pattern Recognition. IPCV'18.
- ^ "Why Following Bloggers Who Share Your Hair Texture Is Actually Helpful". Essence. 2020-10-26. Retrieved 2024-11-01.
- ^ Mamona, Sheilla (2023-03-11). "There are 12 hair types, so which one is yours?". Glamour UK. Retrieved 2024-11-01.
- ^ Hurly, Adam (2016-04-05). "The Best Products for Curly Hair of Every Type and Texture". GQ. Retrieved 2024-11-01.
- ^ "Towards Creation of a Curl Pattern Recognition - ProQuest". www.proquest.com. Retrieved 2024-11-01.
- ^ Gaines, Michelle; Page, Imani; Miller, Nolan; Greenvall, Benjamin; Medina, Josh; Irschick, Duncan; Southard, Adeline; Ribbe, Alexander; Grason, Gregory (2023-04-10), Reimagining Hair Science: A New Approach to Classify Curly Hair Phenotypes via New Quantitative Geometrical & Structural Mechanical Parameters, doi:10.26434/chemrxiv-2022-35bt7-v2, retrieved 2024-11-01
- ^ "Episode 13: Are you a 4C?". The Stoop. Retrieved 2018-04-25.
- ^ Sabrina (2016-11-25). "The Only Guide You Ever Need For Hair Typing Natural Hair". Seriously Natural. Retrieved 2024-10-14.
- ^ Trebilcock, Jennifer. "Andre Walker Hair System: Hair Type or Hair Hype? – Black Hair Spot". Retrieved 2024-10-14.
- ^ "Two Basic Hair Typing Systems and How To Use Them". HairFlair.
- ^ "The Only Hair Typing System Article You'll Ever Need". Curl Centric® | Rewrite the Rules of Natural Hair Care. 2017-03-09. Retrieved 2018-04-25.
- ^ Gaines, Michelle; Page, Imani; Miller, Nolan; Greenvall, Benjamin; Medina, Josh; Irschick, Duncan; Southard, Adeline; Ribbe, Alexander; Grason, Gregory (2023-04-10), Reimagining Hair Science: A New Approach to Classify Curly Hair Phenotypes via New Quantitative Geometrical & Structural Mechanical Parameters, doi:10.26434/chemrxiv-2022-35bt7-v2, retrieved 2024-10-14
- ^ Paolo. "Get to know your hair type with the Andre Walker method - Divina BLK - Cosmetic products for curly, super-curly and afro hair". www.divinablk.com. Retrieved 2024-10-14.
- ^ Blay, Annie (April 4, 2024). "How to Figure Out Your Curl Type". Allure.
- ^ Grant-West, Charlotte (21 Aug 2023). "Is the Hair Typing System Due an Update?". Hairdressers Journal.
- ^ Krueger, Loren (5 April 2022). "Curl pattern classification: A potential tool for communication and risk stratification". International Journal of Women's Dermatology. 8 (2): e015. doi:10.1097/JW9.0000000000000015. PMC 9112386. PMID 35619674.