Wikipedia

Boone Speed

Boone Speed (born August 29, 1965) is an American photographer[1] and figure[2] within the sport of rock climbing. The only son of Western sculptor[3] Ulysess Grant Speed (January 6, 1930 – October 1, 2011), Boone was raised outside of Provo, Utah, and studied Graphic Design at Brigham Young University.

Boone Speed
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1965-08-29) August 29, 1965 (age 59)
Provo, Utah
OccupationPhotographer / climber
Height6 ft 1 in (185 cm)
Weight150 lb (68 kg)
Climbing career
Highest grade

Climbing career

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Boone began climbing in the summer of 1985 near Salt Lake City, Utah. By the spring of 1987 Boone had climbed the most challenging routes in the region,[4] and began traveling to explore new crags in other undeveloped areas, including the sandstone of Red Rocks, outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, American Fork Canyon,[5] Virgin River Gorge and Logan Canyon, Utah, where Boone became the first American to climb the grade of 5.14b with his first ascent of "Super Tweak"[6] in 1994.

Boone has been on the cover of Climbing Magazine twice and has had published writing and photography in climbing, lifestyle and travel magazines worldwide.[7]

Timeline

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  • 1988 Began developing American Fork's Hell Cave[8] is home to many 1990's era test pieces including Speed's Power Junkie (5.14a) and his hardest route, "Ice Cream" (5.14c)
  • 1989 began to develop the Virgin River Gorge, where Boone established the demanding classics "Fall Of Man" 5.13b (1990) and "Route of all Evil" 5.14a (1994)
  • In August 1991, Boone was Climbing Magazine's cover feature and American Fork Canyon Climbing was its cover story, establishing Salt Lake City as a destination climbing area as well as an influence on the "limestone revolution" in America
  • 1990 Boone was featured in the video "Masters Of Stone" on Dead Souls (5.13d) and Burning (5.13b) in American Fork's "Hell Cave"
  • 1990 began to develop Logan Canyon, where Boone became the first American to successfully establish a consensus 5.14b route, "Super Tweak" in 1994
  • 1991 began employment as designer at Black Diamond Equipment
  • 1994 First ascent of Super Tweak featured in the video "Masters Of Stone 3"[9]
  • 1995 Discovered Joe's Valley for bouldering (on tip from Conrad Anker[10]) and established first problems there
  • 1995 Original partner of innovative climbing company Pusher where Boone became an influential handhold and training board shaper
  • 1996 Pictured on cover of Climbing magazine (for second time) and feature article entitled "Boone Speed Tells All"[11]
  • 1997 met Chris Sharma at base of "Necessary Evil" and established ongoing friendship
  • 1997 climbed first ascent of "Ice Cream" 5.14c becoming one of the first 10 climbers in the world to climb the grade[12]
  • 1997–1999 Employed by Fila as a climbing shoe designer and climbing market authenticator
  • 1999–2001 Employed as creative director and photographer for Pusher[13]
  • 2001–2007 worked as freelance designer and photographer for Bluewater Ropes and Entre Prises Climbing Walls
  • 2005 Featured Photographer at Taos Mountain Film Festival[14]
  • 2009 Photography show at Nau popup in New York
  • 2011 PDN's "The Shot" Grand Prize winner[15]
  • 2013 Photographed Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda for ESPN The Magazine "The Body Issue"[16]
  • 2014 Represented America as climbing Legend at The North Face's Kalymnos Climbing Festival[17]
  • 2015 "Frightening Nature" film accepted into Cannes Short Film Corner (Director of Photography)[18]

Filmography

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  • "Masters of Stone"[19] (1990)
  • "Masters of Stone 3"[20] (1994)
  • "Yank on This" (1995)
  • "Three Weeks and a Day"[21] (1996)
  • "Best Forgotten Art"[22] (1996)
  • "Fast Twitch"[23] (1997)
  • "Movement" (1998)
  • "Free Hueco"[24] (1998)
  • "Frequent Flyers"[25] (2001)
  • "Best of the West"[26] (2004)
  • "Big Game"[27] (2004)
  • "King Lines"[28] (2007)
  • "Perfecto[29]" (2007)
  • "Heraklia"[30] (2008)
  • "Running From Crazy"[31] (2012)
  • "Project American Fork"[32] (2013)

References

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  1. ^ "Photographer Boone Speed". Archived from the original on July 8, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  2. ^ "Climbing Legends – James Pearson on Boone Speed – THE NORTH FACE JOURNAL". Archived from the original on March 25, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  3. ^ "Von Allen – Marriott Library – The University of Utah". lib.utah.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  4. ^ "Get Shorty – The 5 best miniature sport routes in America – Climbing". April 2009. Retrieved July 12, 2015.
  5. ^ "Documenting AF Canyon and the climbing revolution | KSL.com". www.ksl.com. Retrieved June 26, 2015.
  6. ^ "Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  7. ^ "Top Shots: Climbing's Indelible Images by Boone Speed". rockandice.com. Archived from the original on September 5, 2015. Retrieved July 12, 2015.
  8. ^ "21 Questions with Boone Speed – Climbing". August 27, 2009. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  9. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  10. ^ "Boone Speed Photography". Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  11. ^ "Boone Sheridan Speed – Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, Oregon". August 20, 2008. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  12. ^ "Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  13. ^ "An Interview with Boone Speed: Athlete, Photographer, Innovator". December 9, 2009. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  14. ^ "This Year's Featured Films – Taos Mountain Film Festival, October 7–9, 2005". mountainfilm.net. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  15. ^ "The Shot 2011". pdngallery.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  16. ^ "ESPN's 2013 Body Issue's Bodies We Want". Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  17. ^ "The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival". Archived from the original on June 24, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  18. ^ "FRIGHTENING NATURE". sub.festival-cannes.fr. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  19. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  20. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  21. ^ Three Weeks & A Day: The Road, Rock, Life, Reality – An Epic, ASIN 6303891942
  22. ^ "Best Forgotten Art – SteepEdge". steepedge.com. Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  23. ^ "Rock Climbing Media Reviews: Books, Movies, and more". chockstone.org. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  24. ^ Climbing, Crank (April 21, 2015). "The Crank Chronicles: Crank Media Review: Free Hueco!". The Crank Chronicles. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  25. ^ "Review: Big Up Productions' Progression DVD". Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  26. ^ "Best of the West climbing video download from iCLIMB.com". iclimb.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  27. ^ "Big game". outdoor-films.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  28. ^ King Lines, March 1, 2007, retrieved July 1, 2015
  29. ^ "Perfecto". outdoor-films.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  30. ^ "Herakleia". Archived from the original on March 3, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  31. ^ Running from Crazy, January 7, 2013, retrieved July 1, 2015
  32. ^ "Project American Fork – Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
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