Bubungan Dua Belas

The Bubungan Dua Belas (House of Twelve Roofs) is located about 1 mile (1.6 km) from south of Pusat Bandar of Bandar Seri Begawan and built in 1907, is a prominent example of Colonial and Malay Vernacular architecture. Originally serving as the official residence a total of 25 British Residents and High Commissioners during Brunei’s colonial period, the residency showcases the unique blend of British colonial design with traditional Malay elements. Once a key diplomatic residence, the residency is now closed for renovations, marking the end of its functional use while retaining its historical and architectural significance in Brunei’s landscape. Notably, it is one of the oldest buildings in the country.

House of Twelve Roofs
Bubungan Dua Belas
The residency in 2015
General information
Status	Closed
Type	Historic site and residence
Architectural style	Colonial-Malay vernacular architecture
Address	Jalan Residency
Town or city	Bandar Seri Begawan
Country	Brunei
Coordinates	4.87743°N 114.95156°E / 4.87743; 114.95156
Completed	July 1907 (1907-07)
Renovated	Since 2015
Technical details
Material	Wood
Other information
Parking	On site

History

Early history (1865–1907)

Consular House in c. 1898

In light of Brunei's relation with the United Kingdom, the British consulate building's history extends back to the middle of the 19th century. British Consul General Spenser St. John built a makeshift home in 1856 under Sultan Abdul Momin's rule, which was eventually renovated to a permanent building in 1858. Before it began to decay, this structure remained for almost thirty years. Malcolm McArthur quickly got to work after being appointed Brunei's first British Resident and Deputy Governor of Labuan in 1906. Significant progress was reported in his first annual report, which included clearing the site of the former consulate, erecting temporary quarters for European officers, and constructing roads, bridges, and a wharf. An office and temporary police facilities were set up, and work on a permanent residence started in December using Sandakan wood. Edmund Roberts, the Superintendent of Works and Surveys, oversaw the construction of the permanent residency, while the temporary structure was probably constructed close to the river.

Except for a small disturbance in 1906, early records of the residency show little violence. However, Vir Singh, a Sikh constable, killed Resident Maundrell in 1916 when he attempted to arrest him while likely intoxicated. Later that year, Singh was put on trial, given a death sentence, and put to death. According to a local tale, Singh's execution near the old jail may have something to do with Maundrell's spirit haunting the area.

Building the residency (1907–1940)

The residency in c. 1907

Constructed on the location of the former Consular House, the permanent residency was finished by July 1907. Although excavation of the site would be necessary for physical proof, historical accounts indicate a direct connection between the current building and St. John's previous residence. It's more likely that debris from the old home was compacted into the foundation, even if some people think the brick pillars may have been part of Callaghan's 1874 renovations. A £20,000 loan from the Federated Malay States was used to finance the construction of the residency; by 1916, the building's overall costs had come to $8,000.

Following McArthur's departure from Brunei in 1908, a string of acting residents, including Harvey Chevalier, who served in 1909 but only in an acting capacity, temporarily took over as British Resident. The lack of attention paid to the residency during this time may have been caused by the fact that the combined roles of Resident Brunei and Resident Labuan were not formally separated until 1915. When Sultan Hashim Jalilul Alam Aqamaddin kindly gave four brass cannons to be displayed in the residency in 1911 along with other historical items gathered from old Malay forts, the residency began to attract notice. Along with other items, these brass cannons are no longer in the house. In 1972, two British cannons that had been on exhibit on the terrace were transferred to the Brunei Museum.

View of the Brunei River and Kampong Ayer from the general vicinity of the Residency Hill in 1912

Acting Resident Harvey Chevalier oversaw a number of upgrades to the residency and its grounds in 1914, including $250 for "Residency grounds (court)," furnishings, painting, and a new flagstaff. This amount might have been related to the construction of a tennis court on the leveled space that had been utilised in 1906 for temporary structures such as police barracks. The court appears to have been abandoned years ago based on its current state of decay. A billiard table also received an unexpected $1,000 budget, demonstrating the priorities of the time. Perhaps because of his dual duty alongside Resident Labuan, Chevalier, who was acting resident for four years, never achieved the substantive job.

The residency needed major repairs by 1920, and the estimates included $500 for this reason, however it's still unclear exactly what was done. In the same year, the Sikh contingent was dropped and the police barracks were moved from Residency Hill to Brunei Town. A 1914 shot reveals a structure with evident stone foundations that may have been the former police barracks but is now a gardener's cottage. There was also a parade field at the base of the drive. Additionally, sources near the house next door have pinpointed the location of the former jail.

The residency's roof was damaged by lightning in 1924, although it was temporarily repaired. Complete renovations and a new roof were completed in 1926. The "Syrian" ceilings were probably replaced with boards as part of these changes. In 1927, other improvements were performed, such as the installation of contemporary sanitation and the building of additional servants' quarters. The residency's 1906-built jetty was refurbished in 1929, underscoring its significance as a river communication center. A set of brick steps in the garden still marks the location of the jetty, which was eventually removed in the 1960s. The residents most likely used these steps as a means of getting to the jetty for transportation.

Japanese occupation (1940–1952)

Major General George Wootten, Ahmad Tajuddin and Lieutenant General Leslie Morshead at the residency on 29 June 1945

The residency in 1948

The residency underwent no significant restorations or changes between 1929 and 1940 because the country's economy was greatly enhanced by the growth of the oil industry. Though specifics are still unknown, estimates for 1940 included $3,500 for "alterations and repairs" to the residency, part of which might have gone toward a new garage and an addition on the building's southern side. The residency served as Japanese headquarters during the Japanese occupation of Brunei in December 1941. The residency only sustained a few bullet wounds in the roof from Allied aircraft machine guns during the 1944 bombardment of Brunei Town. Despite the town's extensive destruction, the residency appears to be mostly intact in a 1948 annual report shot. Wing Commander K. E. H. Kay served as the Senior Civil Affairs Officer during the brief British Military Administration occupation of the residency following the June 1945 landing of Allied forces at Muara Beach. Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin was cordially greeted by the Australian 9th Division upon his return to Brunei Town on 17 June 1945, following the liberation of Brunei by the Australian Army. In the residency, the Australian military commander arranged for him to be greeted with a Guard of Honour and served tea. British Resident John Peel returned to the residency once civil authority was restored in July 1946. According to reports and photographs, the garage and addition were constructed about 1948.

The exterior and interior design of the building are based on a photograph and floor plan of the residency from 1948, which were confidently dated by State Engineer J. McLeod. McLeod most likely created this concept in advance of significant modifications in 1949, some of which had already started in 1948 and included the residency of a guard house that is now a gardener's cottage and a second line of staff apartments. The residency's floor, which was more than thirty years old, was replaced with Merbau wood that was brought in from Singapore, and the roof was reattached, but the word "re-attaped" might be deceptive because the roof has always been made of wooden shingles rather than nipah palm leaves, according to the 1949 annual report. Although some floorboards were replaced in 1965 owing to degradation, the majority of the current roof and floor were completed in 1949. The wooden flooring still have brass keeps, indicating that some doors were still made using the original design.

Despite the disruptions of war, the house maintained its tranquil environment when Resident Eric Pretty returned to the British Residency in 1948 after a 20-year absence. But Brunei Town and the residency were in bad shape. Pretty's wife noted that a lot of work, such as re-roofing, re-flooring, and renovating the inside while maintaining its character, was required to make the house liveable. A new jetty and road were made, the gardens were repaired, a swimming pool was installed, and the kitchen was moved. With the exception of a tiny, unreliable Japanese generator, there was no electricity at the time, and supplies had to be shipped every week from Seria via rivers and beaches.

Modernisation (1952–1972)

The residency in 1963

In the grounds close to the residency, a new office building with an additional bedroom for visiting guests was built in 1952. Before being refurbished in 1979, this area was first used as a guest house, then as a general store, and last as quarters for the resident's secretary. It is believed that in order to accommodate her huge party during Princess Marina's visit in the 1950s, the resident temporarily moved to a nearby home. The residency's interior had additional changes in 1953, such as the removal of partition walls between the dining room and veranda to create a big living area. This greatly improved the front veranda's appearance of space.

To allow greater gatherings, a number of changes were undertaken during Resident John Gilbert's tenure at the residency. The dining room was enlarged by moving the back partition of the former office, and various rooms were equipped with air conditioners. In addition, a corridor between the southern bedrooms was added to the end bedroom, and the kitchen, which had previously been moved, was brought back into the house. The urge to have bigger parties, especially for occasions like the Queen's Birthday, probably motivated these modifications. With the sultan's participation, the Gilberts instituted a morning garden party custom that started with a march and ended with a reception at the residency. Since the reception is now held in the evening, this tradition has persisted.

The residency underwent extensive repairs in 1958 in anticipation of the Duke of Edinburgh's visit. The spacious bedroom in the northern wing was separated into a bedroom and study. It was paneled in stained wood to mimic a ship's cabin, and it had soft board ceilings, air conditioning, fitted wardrobes, and a larger toilet. During his two days there in February 1959, the Duke went to a number of activities, such as a water pageant and the opening of the Edinburgh Bridge. With the signing of the 1959 Agreement later that year, the position of British Resident was replaced by the newly appointed high commissioner, whose official residence was the residency. In 1960, a new office was constructed on the residency grounds, close to the location of McArthur's temporary residence from 1906, to reflect these changes.

Although Gurkha soldiers were temporarily stationed there during the 1962 revolt, the Residency was unharmed; however, vestiges of buildings like a kitchen and baths can still be seen today. The guest bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen were updated during High Commissioner Fernley Webber's stay in 1967, and there were plans for a two-bedroom addition that never materialised. Although the home was nonetheless maintained at Brunei's expense, the duty for Brunei to provide a "suitable residence" for the high commissioner was eliminated by 1971 due to a change of the treaty between Brunei and the United Kingdom. At this point, the building's name was changed from the residency to the high commissioner's residence to better represent its new purpose.

Independence and beyond (1972–present)

The residency seen from Jalan Residency in 2023

For Queen Elizabeth II's visit in 1972, the residency underwent extensive modifications, which included repositioning the store to make the pantry easier to reach and transferring the kitchen to a former guest room. The veranda's electrical, plumbing, and drainage systems were renovated, and plywood paneling was installed in lieu of the open latticework at the back. Central air conditioning was also installed. At $31,400, the property was repainted, refurnished, and equipped with new wardrobes and pelmets, which meant that all of the previous furnishings and décor had to be removed. When the Queen visited on 29 February 1972, she held an investiture and reception in the home, and a raised deck was added to the back courtyard. Since then, the Residency has remained mostly unchanged, maintaining its features and form from 1972.

Following Brunei's independence, the residency was converted into a cultural centre. In 1998, as part of a collaboration between Brunei and the United Kingdom, it underwent another transformation and was formally inaugurated as an exhibition gallery by the Queen. Five primary galleries honouring Brunei's diplomatic ties with Britain were placed within the structure. The residency was renovated in 2007, but due to repairs, the structure was closed to the public in 2013, and its future is still unknown. The museum was purportedly closed for repairs in 2015, and as of 2022, the work was still unfinished.

Design and features

Though its name's origin is still unknown, the residency is known for its unusual architecture, especially for its characteristic tiered roofs. Perched atop Residency Hill, 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) south of Bandar Seri Begawan, this ideal site overlooks Kampong Ayer. Known as Brunei's oldest colonial remnant, the structure is a prime example of uncommon timber construction. Despite changes made for structural support and size alterations brought about by site limits, it still largely resembles the original design from when it was built. Raised on timber pillars, the building is made of imported Sandakan wood, with Kapur wood for the flooring and wooden shingles for the roof.

Bubungan Dua Belas's architecture blends aspects of traditional Malay and European style. The main entrance's flat roof opens onto a veranda that encircles the front of the structure and has ornate porch railings with Southeast Asian-inspired designs. The building's wood casement windows and walls add to the building's typical Malay house appearance. Historical records show that the original structure featured two bedrooms and a central living room, however there have been significant internal alterations. Additional rooms, including a dining room, reading room, and office, were added during 1948 renovations.

See also

• List of museums in Brunei

References

• Reece, Bob (2009). ""The Little Sultan": Ahmad Tajuddin II of Brunei, Gerard MacBryan, and Malcolm Macdonald" (PDF). Borneo Research Bulletin. 40. Borneo Research Council. ISSN 0006-7806.
• Sidhu, Jatswan S. (1997). Historical Dictionary of Brunei Darussalam (2nd ed.). Lanham: Scarecrow Press. ISBN 978-0-8108-7078-9.
• Watson, A. C. (1982). "Notes On The History Of Bubongan Dua-Belas The British High Commissioner's Residence In Brunei". Brunei Museum Journal. 5 (2). Bandar Seri Begawan: Brunei History Centre, Ministry of Culture, Youth and Sports: 37–104.

Further reading

• Bubungan Dua Belas: Notes on the History of Bubungan Das Belas, the British High Commissioner's Residence in Brunei. Brunei Museum. 1998.

External links

• 100th anniversary of Bubungan dua belas is commemorated by Brunei postal services department