Diaper is a damask cloth with small geometrical patterns such as bird's eye or diamond shapes. Terms such as “bird’s eye” or “pheasant’s eye” refer to the size of the diamond in the design.[1] Diaper has been used as a tablecloth.[2]
Bird's eye pattern
editBird's eye pattern (nightingale's eye, bulbul chashm) is a geometrical pattern of a diamond shape similar to a bird's eye used in various types of cloth.[3] Bulbul chashm ("chashm-e-bulbul") or nightingale's eye refers to a larger diamond shape with a dotted eye in the middle.[4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11]
Etymology
editThe etymology of the term "diaper" traces back to the Latin word "diasper," which denotes rough and uneven texture. The word passed through the Low Latin term "diasperus," which referred to a particular type of cloth.[12]
History
edit“Diaper” refers to any small geometrical or floral pattern that consists of the constant repetition of one or more simple figure or units of design evenly spaced. The term was initially associated with silk with diamond patterns later applied to linen and cotton fabrics of similar designs.[13][14][15]
Structure
editDiaper is made of linen and sometimes cotton or a combination of both.[13][16]
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A similar weave, also called a diamond twill
More applications of bird's eye pattern in textiles
editThe design's versatility in terms of textile materials received praise, and several other applications associated with the bird's eye pattern are worth mentioning. These include:
Weave
editSilk fabrics with the bulbul design, made in Baghdad, were used in northern India in the 17th century. In these cloths, bulbul chrshum was woven with a yellow warp and a red weft, forming diamond patterns.[6]
Khes weaving
editCheck patterns (''charkhana'', chequered) and ''Bulbul chashm'' are renowned patterns in Khes weaving.[17][18]
Sari
editA birds-eye pattern is used in saris, as well.[19]
Embroidery
editThe pattern is also used In embroidery art such as phulkari.[20]
See also
edit- Diapering is any of a wide range of decorative patterns used in a variety of works of art, such as stained glass, heraldic shields, architecture, and silverwork. Its chief use is in the enlivening of plain surfaces.
References
edit- ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 08 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 166; see lines seven and eight from end.
...these terms indicate...the size of the complete diamond in the cloth—the smaller kind taking the name "bird's-eye."
- ^ Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue. Spicer brothers. 1851. p. 516.
- ^ "Definition of BIRD'S-EYE". www.merriam-webster.com. Retrieved 2021-07-15.
- ^ Kadolph (2009). Textiles. Pearson Education. p. 462. ISBN 978-81-317-2570-2.
- ^ Steele, Valerie (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Charles Scribner's Sons. p. 79. ISBN 978-0-684-31395-5.
- ^ a b Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013-09-17). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. p. 68. ISBN 978-1-60901-535-0.
- ^ MATHEWS, KOLANJIKOMBIL (2017). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 210. ISBN 978-93-85059-66-7.
- ^ Rai, Dr Chhavi; Hiran, Dr Divya; N.K.Dashora, Dr; Kothari, Dr Hemant. Acceptability Of Silk Fabric Among Working Women Of Chandigarh City. RED'SHINE Publication. Pvt. Ltd. p. 64. ISBN 978-93-89840-83-4.
- ^ Bhandari, Vandana (2015). Jewelled Textiles: Gold and Silver Embellished Cloth of India. Om Books International. ISBN 978-93-83202-00-3.
- ^ Singh, Martand; Mehra, Priya Ravish; Kumar, Tushar; Bannerji, Nivedita (1995). Saris of India: Bihar & West Bengal. Wiley Eastern. p. 269. ISBN 978-81-224-0830-0.
- ^ "Of lost weaves". Deccan Herald. 2017-03-25. Retrieved 2021-07-12.
- ^ Britton, John (1838). A Dictionary of the Architecture and Archaeology of the Middle Ages:: Including Words Used by Ancient and Modern Authors in Treating of Architectural and Other Antiquities: with Etymology, Definition, Description, and Historical Elucidation: Also, Biographical Notices of Ancient Architects. Longman, Orme, Brown, Green, and Longmans, Paternoster Row; and the author, Burton Street. p. 113.
- ^ a b Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York; London : Norton. p. 218. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
- ^ "Definition of DIAPER". www.merriam-webster.com. Retrieved 2021-05-31.
- ^ "The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopædia Britannica, Volume VIII Slice IV - Diameter to Dinarchus". www.gutenberg.org. Retrieved 2021-05-31.
- ^ Denny, Grace G. (Grace Goldena) (1962). Fabrics. Internet Archive. Philadelphia, Lippincott. p. 26.
- ^ Baden-Powell, Baden Henry (1872). Hand-book of the Manufactures & Arts of the Punjab: With a Combined Glossary & Index of Vernacular Trades & Technical Terms ... Forming Vol. Ii to the "Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab" Prepared Under the Orders of Government. Punjab printing Company. pp. 6, 16, 22.
- ^ Forming ... to the hand-book of the economic products of the Punjab. Engineering College Press. 1872. p. 16.
- ^ Lynton, Linda (1995). The Sari: Styles, Patterns, History, Techniques. H.N. Abrams. p. 193. ISBN 978-0-8109-4461-9.
- ^ Chopra, Ashok (2018-01-15). Memories of Fire. Penguin Random House India Private Limited. ISBN 978-93-5305-002-3.
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