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The Evolution of Bangkok Fashion
editBangkok - the capital city that holds immense significance both politically, economically, and culturally in Thailand. It is the heart of vibrant fashion filled with traditions, modernity, and individuality of Southeast Asia.[1] Begin with a root in traditional Thai attire to its contemporary status as a global fashion destination - reflect the rich culture and influences of global trends. Inspired by both the Thai textile heritage and the globalization of fashion tendencies, Bangkok’s fashion shows a strong combination of timeless tradition and current sensations.
Throughout time, various fashion styles have been debuted in this land of diversity and creativity. From the most well-known Thai attires to Western influences of streetwear and vintage garments, to Thai-inspired apparel made by Thai contemporary designers enhancing the conventions of craftsmanship. All garments and accessories have become greatly significant and accessible to Bangkokians and tourists in the local markets to luxurious boutiques - varying from low-end to high-end quality.
The evolution of fashion in Bangkok has exerted a profound influence across various industries, catalyzing economic growth and cultural dynamism throughout the city. The rise of Bangkok’s fashion began to change to a Western-style during the era of Field Marshal P. Phibunsongkhram (1940s) with a declaration of nationalism to require people to dress in modern fashion, such as wearing hats, shoes, and skirts instead of Chong Kraben. Later on, the clothing in Bangkok became more fashionable. Instead of dressing for modern society's adaptation and acceptance, people started dressing to express their identity and individuality through fashion.[2][3]
Women
editThai Women's Traditional Clothing and Attire
editThai traditional clothing has significantly evolved throughout different periods due to the shift in cultures, trades, and social norms.[4] During the Sukhothai (13th-15th century), women wore decorative and accessorized long silk or sinh fabric of Thai patterns. The intricate details play a role in differentiating social status and classes. Subsequently, in Ayutthaya period (14th-18th century), clothing was majorly influenced by trading with various countries. The loincloth was used to create chong kraben worn by women as a bottom and paired with fabric wrap as a top. In addition to the war period, women wore barely any accessories with short hair for easy mobility.[5][6]
As the Thonburi period (late 17th century) approached, Chinese-style clothes greatly impacted Thai attires. Though, we can still see women wearing silk sarongs and sometimes Chinese silk loincloth, along with sabai. Moving to the Rottanakosin period (17th century to the present day), Thai standardized clothing started to incorporate Western elements. Which, King Chulalongkorn introduced chut thai with tailored stitches. Whereas, King Vajiravudh created a campaign to encourage women to wear long hair and tubular skirts instead of the traditional chong kraben or pha chung hang. These changes reflect a great blend of cultural influences and the evolving fashion trends in Thai traditional clothes throughout history.
Colonialism and Western Influences
editBy the 19th century, “Two kings, Mongkut and Chulalongkorn, witnessed the expansion of both France and Great Britain to increase their colonial territories in Southeast Asia and encircle Siam.” Colonialism greatly impacted Thai clothing - especially in the upper and elite classes. Heavily impacted by the colonial powers of Europe and Japan, the Thai clothing industry began to adopt Western fashion.[7]
As such, Thai elite royal court women began to wear tailored clothes to embrace modernity and differentiate their status. Furthermore, Thai silk has been used to make tailored suits, trousers, and other garments, reminding the people of traditional Thai clothing. These women became the trendsetters and influenced the fashion preferences of women in all classes.
In addition to the clothing styles, the colonizations brought innovations and materials into Thailand's fashion industry. Thailand started to explore European textiles, laces on traditional clothes, and the clothing manufacturing industry. In regards, daily clothing has become more simplified for comfort, and Thai traditional attires are still used during special occasions.
Contemporary Thai Costumes
editIn the 21st century, Bangkok’s fashion scene continues to flourish and grow enormously. Women’s clothing styles have shown a clear mixture of Western, localities, and traditional sensations. Thai designers have emerged and experimented with Western and locally inspired patterns, textures, fabrics, and color palettes. The key characteristics of contemporary Thai fashion include attention to detail through their meticulous craftsmanship. Some designers emphasize minimalism with clean shapes and muted colors to reflect and bring out the elegance of the wearers. Colors played a big role in creating contemporary pieces so, different color variants were experimented with to show the youthfulness and playful spirit of the modern Thai people. Crucially, garment pieces have slowly become more and more suitable and versatile for all genders with comfort as their priority.[8][9]
Streetwear and Global Influences
editAsia has been an unsung global leader in the fashion revolution that’s all about hoodies, t-shirts, sneakers, and tracksuits. Likewise, Bangkok is becoming a huge streetwear hub in the Southeast Asia region. It is influenced by sub-cultures such as music, art, fashion, and the sports industry. “Streetwear is not a subculture anymore. It’s massively mainstream now.” Anupong Kuttikul - creative director of Carnival Group stated. The celebrities' culture and social media are the major factors in the growth of Thailand’s streetwear. It urges people to discover new styles and it acts as a new way to influence their peers. Though streetwear fashion is versatile, most brand owners target teens and twentysomethings. They find the most success with this group of consumers as they are constantly experienced and influenced by the subcultures. They are excited and want to keep up with the trends.[10] [11]
Women’s styles prioritize comfortability. Therefore, different variations of Nylon pants, jerseys, basic t-shirts, or tank tops are highly sighted in the city. Moreover, bold and graphite tees are the current teenagers' sensations. Most designs are heavily influenced by local culture and patterns as well as the global celebrities' presence such as Kendrick Lamar and the Kardashians. The rise of K-pop and J-pop also play a big role in bringing new streetwear fashion. Women and younger generations can be seen wearing plaid skirts, oversized hoodies, leggings, and stacked-on accessories. Aside, streetwear clothes have not only become mainstream but also become more accessible and affordable.[12]
Beauty and Cosmetics Trends
editThailand has a deep root in traditional and cultural appreciation for holistic wellness. Herbal remedies with natural ingredients like turmeric and tamarind were believed and incorporated to maintain healthy skin and enhance beauty. Nonetheless, Thai beauty consumers are very open and willing to try innovations within the industry.[13]
Similar to streetwear culture, the rise of K-pop and Korean culture has had an enormous impact on beauty trends in Bangkok. This has urged women and younger generations to explore and follow these trends. In recent years, the term “K-beauty look” has become a social media global and local sensation. As research depicted, “More than half of Thai consumers in 2022 said that the Republic of Korean beauty ideals were popular.” In which, various cosmetics and care products promise to bring that soft, glowing look. So, one of the makeup essentials for Thai women is lip products. When it comes to products, “In Thailand, lips are a must for the ladies.” Some of the most popular brands among locals include; Cathy Doll, Skynlab, Browit, 4U2, and Srichand.
Since COVID-19, consumers are paying even more attention to their health and become more comprehensive about products recommended by doctors and dermatologists. Based on the German-Thai Chamber of Commerce magazine has shown that products containing herbs and plant extracts are particularly selling well. On the other hand, lightening products are less popular due to whitening ingredients that could cause hazardous harm if used often. Regardless, many skincare products are affordable with lower prices compared to makeup, which you can get just from any 7-Eleven stall.[14]
Men
editThai traditional Clothing and Attire
editTraditional Thai men's clothing reflected the culture and fashion of that period. Men in Sukhothai and Ayutthaya era (13th-18th Century) wore Pha Nung which is a lower garment similar to a Sarong. It was made of silk or cotton and can be worn by both men and women. For higher social status, men would wear Chong Kraben. It is similar to Pha Nung but with pleats and a more intricate design. It was common for men to go bare-chested, especially for those commoners who engaged in laborious activities. Instead, they wore a piece of cloth across the chest over the shoulders to provide warmth and protection from the sun. According to the royal laws of the country at that time, it was ordered that the men of Ayutthaya must keep their hair short and comb it into a middle part similar to an undercut.[15]
During the Thonburi period (Late 17th Century), to solve the crisis of the economy and helping citizens to have a better life quality after the war ended, Thonburi had more abroad relationships and opened trade contacts with China throughout the era. Therefore, some clothing cultures were invented such as Chinese cloth satin.[16] Later during the Rattanakosin period (King Rama I - King Rama III), clothing was continued from the late Ayutthaya period. Since most Thai people in the early Rattanakosin came from Ayutthaya, their knowledge, thoughts, beliefs, and various traditions were not very different from then.
Colonialism and Western Influences
editThe era of King Rama IV and V was the period of opening the country and contacting Westerners, who were seeking the colony of King Mongkut. His Majesty carried out political, economic, and social policies as well as improving and changing some customs and traditions to be consistent with Foreign policy guidelines that raised these problems to interfere in the country's internal affairs.
His Majesty King Mongkut, for the first time, ordered government officials to wear shirts to have an audience with His Majesty with the idea that not wearing a shirt was outdated and foreigners would see Thai people as barbarians. He also initiated modern Western hairstyles by ordering ambassadors to be sent to Europe and asked the diplomatic corps to leave their hair long like a Westerner. But when the ambassadors returned to Bangkok, they cut their hair as usual in Mahadthai style. Until the reign of King Rama V, the king, himself, was the leader in having long hair like Westerns. And there was royal permission for courtiers to have long hair in the Western style ever since.[17]
Contemporary Thai Costumes
editDuring the reign of King Prajadhipok (King Rama VII), the clothing became more similar to Westerners. People would wear suit shirts, ties, and trousers like Westerners when traveling abroad. In 1944, the Civil Service Dress Code Act was enacted by stopping wearing silk Chong Kraben and setting the dress code for civil servants to be by international standards.
During this era, wearing hats was not popular until it was forced to be worn by the Field Marshal P. Phibunsongkhram government. When this government lost power, The compulsory wearing of hats was abolished and the clothing in Bangkok continuously evolved and changed accordingly.[18]
Streetwear and Global Influences
editDuring the era of Field Marshal P. Phibunsongkhram government (1938-1944) greatly promoted culture, it is the point of nation-building in various aspects. There have been many changes in Thai culture and traditions by trying to make culture a part of nation-building. An Act was issued. Many royal decrees and announcements regarding the clothing of Thai people as well as advice on dress, including announcements prohibiting people who dress inappropriately from appearing in public.[19]
Since then, Thai men's fashion has continuously developed with great influence by Western fashion and entertainment industries. The 1950s were a time when jeans were at their most fashionable. Although the beginning of jeans began as being produced for farmers and working-class people who needed pants made from durable materials, The Levi's and Edwin brands paved the way for jeans to become popular and a basic item that is suitable for everyone to wear ever since. Fashion for men in the 50s often chose to wear plain-colored t-shirts that go along with jeans which was influenced by James Dean, an American actor who had the idea that the main character doesn't always have to wear a suit and tie.[20]
During the 70s - 80s, the popular tailor shops for men's clothing were mainly located at Pratunam and Siam Square. Men in the 70s liked to dress in a form-fitting mod style with flare-legged pants in the style of John Travolta from the well-known movie Saturday Night Fever. These tailor shops often had sample designs displayed in front of the store or catalogs to choose from, including clothing styles that were influenced by foreign magazines such as GQ magazine, which at that time was only sold at Central Silom Department Store.[21]
Beauty Trends
editIn the present day where we can access any information with the internet, Social media platforms like Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok play a crucial role in showcasing streetwear trends and styles. Thai fashion influencers, bloggers, and celebrities curate and promote streetwear-inspired outfits, influencing the fashion choices of men. Thai men started to become interested and stay updated on global fashion events like fashion weeks, sneaker releases, and brand collaborations which create excitement and drive trends in Thai streetwear culture.
Many people are turning to take care of themselves even men. Especially when it comes to dressing. Which, if talking about the style of dressing that is currently the most popular among young men, one of them must be the Korean style which is a simple but stylish style of dressing and suitable for the weather conditions of Thailand Today.[22] Another style that young men tend to be more popular with is the Street style. This style emerged in the 90's and focuses on outfits that are often worn in everyday life. This style is unique in that it indicates the uniqueness of the individual including the culture in each area, the advantage of deciding to choose this style is that you can mix and match a variety of clothes.[23]
Youth
editThai Traditional Attires
editSince the Ayutthaya period or earlier, Children usually wore their hair in a bun. Small children generally wouldn’t wear anything at all except for traditional events or in the winter. The boy wore a loincloth or pants. The girls wore sarongs, round-neck shirts, or cover-ups. But if there is a traditional ceremony, children would be beautifully dressed with clothes, and accessories according to one's status.[24]
During the Rattanakosin period, Rama I-III (1782-1851), the dress in this period still adhered to the late Ayutthaya style as well.
Colonial and Western Influences
editDuring the reign of King Rama IV, children still wore their hair in a bun. Girls wore a round-neck shirt with lace on the neck and sleeves. If they are children from high-status families, they would often get dressed up with gold and silver jewelry. As a result, children were often assaulted because of stealth and robbery. Even though it was punishable by death, the criminals still did not fear the crime. His Majesty King Mongkut ordered a notice issued in 1866, prohibiting the use of gold and silver jewelry to dress up small children and announced a ban on dressing children in jewelry and allowing them to travel alone. If a child was seriously harmed because of it, the criminal would be punished as well as those who dress up children.[25]
Later, at the end of King Rama V, the children of nobles did not often wear jewelry at home. There might be some accessories such as small bracelets, small necklaces, rings, and earrings that were rarely worn. Girls in this period wore the same loincloth as adults. They rarely wore shirts when going out so they wore rounded-neck sleeveless collars. When it is an occasion for full dress, they would wear long-sleeved closed-neck shirts decorated with beautiful lace, socks, and shoes. It was still popular to style hair in a bun and begin to grow the hair long after.[26]
Later during the government of Field Marshal P., Thai women were implored to change their dress to be suitable for a civilized country. All Thai women were required to keep their hair long according to traditional customs or what was fashionable at that time. They stopped wearing loincloths and chest cloths and wore shirts instead.
Digital Age and Global Influences
editNowadays, social media platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook have a massive impact on shaping fashion trends among Thai teenagers. Influencers and fashion bloggers showcase various styles, leading to the adoption of trendy and sometimes international fashion among Thai youth. The availability of international fashion brands in Thailand, both online and through physical stores, has exposed teenagers to a wide range of global styles. Brands like H&M, Zara, Nike, Adidas, and others offer clothing lines that resonate with youth culture worldwide.
Streetwear culture, characterized by casual and trendy clothing influenced by hip-hop, skateboarding, and urban lifestyles, has gained popularity among Thai teenagers. Moreover, The popularity of Korean and Japanese pop culture, especially K-Pop and J-Pop music and fashion, has had a significant impact on Thai teenagers' style preferences. They often emulate the fashion choices of their favorite K-Pop idols and Japanese celebrities. However, the growth of awareness among Thai teenagers about sustainable and ethical fashion is rising. They are more conscious about supporting brands that prioritize eco-friendly materials, ethical production processes, and fair labor practices.[27]
Locality and Cultural Fusion
editTraditional Thai patterns and motifs, such as Kranok patterns, and intricate geometric shapes are often integrated into clothing and accessories. These motifs celebrate Thai cultural heritage and add a unique touch to modern outfits. There are often on special occasions such as festivals, ceremonies, or cultural events, we see Thai youths wear traditional Thai costumes like the Chut Thai (traditional dress) for women or the Chong Kraben for men. These costumes highlight pride in Thai culture and heritage.
During cultural festivals like Songkran (Thai New Year) or Loy Krathong (Lantern Festival), Thai teenagers dress in traditional or themed outfits that reflect the festive spirit and cultural significance of these events. They often blend traditional attire with modern elements for a contemporary look. The appreciation towards locally made and handcrafted clothing supports local artisans who create unique pieces using traditional techniques such as hand weaving, embroidery, and beadwork, contributing to sustainable and culturally rich fashion choices.[28]
Impact
editImpact of Fashion Trends on the People
editBangkok’s fashion trends and industry are constantly evolving. Clothes have become a main platform for Thai people to express their individuality and self-image. “Self-expression is the new currency in the fashion industry,” - HKTDC survey. With fashion, they can show the world their character, personality, and who they are through their distinguished style without a limit.[29]
Though trends are consistently rising and dying down, comfortability is still a priority for Thai people. Therefore, many brands are incorporating this ideology into their items to keep up with the trends and fit people’s desires. Brands such as Uniqlo, e-marketplace Zilingo, and e-retailer CarnivalBKK, are some of the most well-known that Thai people go for shopping. It meets their needs for comfort yet is stylish and trendy.
Additionally, social media and influencers are the main driving forces of fashion trends for the locals. With most Generation Y and Z constantly scrolling through platforms like Instagram and Facebook, they consume fashion-related content from there. Which, the information is painted by the influencers they follow and fashion brands.
Future of Bangkok Fashion
editThailand’s fashion industry has experienced rapid growth in recent years, fueled by the rise of fast fashion brands. Streetwear trends, for example, are a primary factor in fast fashion in which brands introduce their collections constantly. They are in trend and affordable which can elevate your wardrobe rapidly. Therefore, the fast fashion industry will continue to strive as it continues to encourage consumers to purchase more than they need.
Moving along the global trends, the forthcoming Bangkok fashion would continue to embody traditional techniques and materials. Brands can be seen blending Thai traditional patterns, icons, and fabrics into streetwear clothing. The vibrant color scheme is also presented to showcase Bangkok - the city of vibrant colors and explorations. Nonetheless, these designs are well-versatile for all genders.
Departuring from the traditional norms, Thailand is slowly introducing gender-free fashion. This will play a major role in joining the global movement toward gender-neutral clothing. Many Thai designers are reimagining garments that encourage self-expression, and individuality through these innovations. They are determined to blend both masculine and feminine styles, to challenge societal norms while showcasing their exclusive creations.[30]
References
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