Habaspuri (Odia pronunciation: [habɔsɔpuɾi]) is a cotton-based traditional handloom textiles of Odisha, India. Habaspuri sari is a major product of this textile. The Bhulia weavers of Chicheguda, Kalahandi district, Odisha are originally attributed for weaving of the Habaspuri fabric.[1] For its uniqueness in weaving, design and production, it has been identified as one of the 14 Geographical Indications of Odisha.[2][3]

A Habaspuri sari.

Etymology

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Habaspuri handloom is named after the village of Habaspur in Kalahandi district where it was originally woven by the Kandha Tribe during 19th CE.When dynastic rule ends,tribal people stopped making sarees but the saree was revived by a weaver named Ugrasen Meher in Chicheguda.[1][4]

Fabric and Design

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This traditional fabric is famous for tie-dye technique and motifs.Mostly made in Cotton and Silk, Ethnic motifs like Kumbha(Temple),Fish,Flowers,Turtle and Tribal wall art of the region on the Sarees makes it even more unique in the textile business of the state.[5][1]

Development

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According to the reports of Textile and Handloom Department, in 2018-19 the production value of Habaspuri Sarees and fabrics gone down,the numbers of weavers also decreased because of poor returns as compared to the labour intensive and time-consuming work. When the handloom was on the verge of declination, fashion designer Sujit Meher, born in Chicheguda took the initiative to revive his homeland handloom.[6]

Production and sales

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The Habaspuri saris and other textile products produced by the individual weavers and groups are marketed and sold by the Handlooms, Textiles and Handlooms Department of the Government of Odisha in the government-run stores.[7]

Documentary

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In November 2023, acclaimed Indian Writer-Director Biswanath Rath's feature documentary project proposal 'Habaspuri Weaving: The Second and Last Death???' got selected in NFDC Film Bazaar Documentary Co-Production Market and was pitched in Film Bazaar Goa held between 20-24 Nov 2023.[8][9][10][11][12][13][14] This documentary is the spiritual successor to Biswanath's acclaimed handloom documentary 'Kotpad Weaving' (on Kotpad Handloom fabrics) and aspires to explore the uniqueness of Habaspuri handloom as well as the issues and challenges faced by Habaspuri weavers from Kalahandi district (Odisha). This documentary proposal featured in the list of 12 Documentaries selected by NFDC team (for co-production market) out of 98 International entries. The documentary is scheduled to go on floor in October 2024.[15]

References

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  1. ^ a b c Kar, Uma Shankar. "Habaspuri weavers seek marketing facilities: The painstaking efforts and creativity of Chicheguda weavers make every Habaspuri saree produced here a special piece. Mostly done in cotton, traditional designs of Kandha". The Indian Express. Archived from the original on February 5, 2016. Retrieved 30 January 2016.
  2. ^ "STATE WISE REGISTRATION DETAILS OF G.I APPLICATIONS 2012 – 2013" (PDF). Ipindia.nic.in. Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion: Ministry of Commerce and Industry. Archived from the original (PDF) on 25 June 2016. Retrieved 30 January 2016.
  3. ^ Raju, Chaudhary, K.D, Seema (April 2013). "Geographical Indications in Odisha : A Leading Destination of Traditional Handlooms" (PDF). Odisha Review. Retrieved 30 January 2016.{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  4. ^ "Habaspuri saree losing ground in own land". The New Indian Express. Retrieved 2023-10-01.
  5. ^ Magazine, Outlook. "Sujit Meher Highlights The Intrinsic Collection Of Habspuri Handloom With 'Story Of Tradition".
  6. ^ "Kalahandi students to don spl uniforms". The Times of India. 2022-12-06. ISSN 0971-8257. Retrieved 2023-10-01.
  7. ^ "Important Handloom Centres". Important Handloom Centres. Handlooms, Textiles and Handlooms Department, Government of Odisha. Archived from the original on 4 February 2016. Retrieved 30 January 2016.
  8. ^ "NFDC Film Bazaar presents 12 promising documentary projects for this edition of the Documentary Co-Production Market". Mumbai. 26 October 2023.
  9. ^ "NFDC Film Bazaar presents 12 promising documentary projects for this edition of the Documentary Co-Production Market" (PDF). Mumbai. 26 October 2023.
  10. ^ "Documentary on Habaspuri Weaving selected for NFDC Film Bazaar 2023". Bhubaneswar. 3 November 2023.
  11. ^ "NFDC Unveils Diverse Non-Feature Film Selection". Mumbai. 27 October 2023.
  12. ^ "NFDC Film Bazaar Presents 12 Promising Documentary Projects For This Edition Of The Documentary Co-Production Market". Mumbai. 26 October 2023.
  13. ^ "HABASPURI WEAVING : THE SECOND AND LAST DEATH???". Bhubaneswar. 3 November 2023.
  14. ^ "Odisha's Cinematic Talent Shines At NFDC's Film Bazaar". Bhubaneswar. 27 October 2023.
  15. ^ "India's Film Bazaar Reveals Market Winners, Deals". Variety Magazine. USA. 25 November 2023.