Jikryeong (Korean직령; Hanja直領; RRjingnyeong; lit. Straight collar), sometimes written as jikryung[1] or jingnyeong and also known as jikryeongpo (직령포; 直領袍; jingnyeongpo), is a type of po with a straight neckline.[2][3] It could be worn as an outwear by men and was sometimes worn under the danryeong.[2] The jikryeong was worn in ordinary times[4] and was worn all year round.[2] It was also worn as a mourning attire[2] during the Joseon period.[3] Following the Japanese invasion (1592–1598), its usage as an outerwear decreased and was more often used as an undergarment.[2] After the latter half of the 17th century, the jikryeong was turned into an inner lining for the danryeong, thus turning to a single lined garment.[2]

Jikryeong
Korean name
Hangul직령
Hanja直領
Literal meaningStraight collar
Transcriptions
Revised RomanizationJikryeong

Design and construction

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The collar of the jikryeong as its name indicate is straight collar, closing to the right side.[2] It may also come with rectangular side panels (무, moo) on each side of the robe.[2][5]

Textile and colour

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The jikryeong could be unlined, lined, and padded.[2] It was natural raw hemp white in colour when used as a mourning attire.[2]

Similar-looking garments

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  • Durumagi: the jikryeong resembles this clothing.[4]
  • Zhishen (jikshin 直身/직신), jikryeong is almost the same as the Chinese zhishen.[6]
  • Zhijupao (直裾袍)

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Kwon, Young-Suk; Do, Ju-Yeun (2001). "Costume Images of the Chosun Period′s Po for Men (Part I ) - Constituent factors, Type, Reflection of the Period -". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (in Korean). 25 (10). ISSN 1225-1151.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Jingnyeong (直領)". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture. Retrieved 2022-03-19.
  3. ^ a b Nam, Mi ni (2001). "A Study on the Shapes of Korean Man′s Overshrouds". Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference: 9–10.
  4. ^ a b Administration Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Korea. "Artifacts Excavated from the Tomb of Kim Wi, Jungwon - Heritage Search". Administration Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Korea. Retrieved 2022-03-20.
  5. ^ Lee, Jooyoung; Kwon, Young-Suk (2003). "조선시대 직령의 유형과 특성" [Type and Characteristics of Jikryung of the Chosun Era]. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (in Korean). 53 (6): 25–43. ISSN 1229-6880.
  6. ^ "A Study on the Jik-Ryoung of Chosun Era -Focusing a True Record of the Chosun Dynasty -". The Research Journal of the Costume Culture. 8 (2): 237–260. 2000. ISSN 1226-0401.
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