Wikipedia

IFSC Climbing World Championships

(Redirected from Lead Climbing World Championship)

Not to be confused with IFSC Climbing World Cup.
For similar championships for climbers under age of 20, see IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships.

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4] The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
Disciplines
Most gold medals
Slovenia Janja Garnbret (8)

History

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Creation and organizers

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In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the competition climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competition climbing.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

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The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which was used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

In 2011, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships were established. The event is usually held alongside the open class competition. Para athletes compete in lead only, except for 2011 when a speed climbing competition was held as well.

Years

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The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.[citation needed]

Championships

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Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Event L S B C Para
1 1991   Frankfurt 1–2 October 2 X X - - - 110 22 [8]
2 1993   Innsbruck 29–30 April 2 X X - - - 127 23 [9]
3 1995   Geneva 5–6 May 2 X X - - - 135 24 [10]
4 1997   Paris 31 January–1 February 2 X X - - - 153 26 [11]
5 1999   Birmingham 2–3 December 2 X X - - - 180 30 [12]
6 2001   Winterthur 5–8 September 3 X X X - - 198 25 [13]
7 2003   Chamonix 9–13 July 3 X X X - - 241 34 [14]
8 2005   Munich 1–5 July 3 X X X - - 318 51 [15]
9 2007   Avilés 17–23 September 3 X X X - - 302 50 [16]
10 2009   Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 X X X - - 219 44 [17]
11 2011   Arco 15–24 July 4 X X X - X 374 56 [18]
12 2012   Paris 12–16 September 5 X X X X X 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014   Munich 21–23 August 1 - - X - - 509 52 [1] [20][2]
  Gijón 8–14 September 4 X X - X X [2]
14 2016   Paris 14–18 September 5 X X X X X 533 53 [3] [21][3][22]
15 2018   Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 X X X X X 834 58 [4] [23][4]
16 2019   Briançon 16–17 July 1 - - - - X
  Hachioji 11–21 August 4 X X X X - 253 39 [5] [24][25]
17 2021   Moscow 15–21 September 5 X X X X X [26]
18 2023   Bern 1–12 August 5 X X X X X [6]
19 2025   Seoul[27] 5 X X X X X

Medals

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As of 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships (excluding paraclimbing medals)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Russia16142353
2  Austria157830
3  France14171748
4  Ukraine117523
5  Slovenia97521
6  Czech Republic610420
7  Japan69823
8  Italy6129
9  Poland54918
10  China54110
11  Spain4509
12  United States39416
13  South Korea35412
14  Switzerland3159
15  Canada3104
16  Belgium2608
17  Germany25916
18  Iran1124
19  Indonesia1012
20  Kazakhstan0134
21  Venezuela0101
22  Great Britain0044
23  Serbia0022
24  Netherlands0011
Totals (24 entries)115115117347

Note 1: share medals in 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships

Note 2: one silver medal in 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships for Climbing Federation of Russia

Men's results

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Lead

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   François Legrand   Yuji Hirayama   Guido Köstermeyer [de]
1993   François Legrand (2)   Stefan Glowacz   Yuji Hirayama
1995   François Legrand (3)   Arnaud Petit [fr]   Elie Chevieux [de]
1997   François Petit   Chris Sharma   François Legrand
1999   Bernardino Lagni [es]   Yuji Hirayama   Maksym Petrenko
2001   Gérôme Pouvreau [fr]   Tomáš Mrázek   François Petit
2003   Tomáš Mrázek   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   David Caude [fr]
2005   Tomáš Mrázek (2)   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Alexandre Chabot
2007   Ramón Puigblanque   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Cédric Lachat [fr]
  Tomáš Mrázek
  Jorg Verhoeven [cs]
2009   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Adam Ondra   David Lama
2011   Ramón Puigblanque (2)   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra
2012   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Adam Ondra
2014   Adam Ondra   Ramón Puigblanque   Sachi Amma
2016   Adam Ondra (2)   Jakob Schubert   Gautier Supper [fr]
2018   Jakob Schubert (2)   Adam Ondra   Alexander Megos
2019   Adam Ondra (3)   Alexander Megos   Jakob Schubert
2021   Jakob Schubert (3)   Luka Potočar   Hamish McArthur
2023   Jakob Schubert (4)   Sorato Anraku   Alexander Megos

Speed

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Hans Florine   Jacky Godoffe [cs]   Kairat Rachmetov [cs]
1993   Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr]   Serik Kazbekov [cs]   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev [cs]
1995   Andrey Vedenmeer [fr]   Milan Benian [cs]   Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr]
1997   Daniel Andrada [es]   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev [cs]   Dmitrij Byčkov [cs]
1999   Vladimir Zakharov [es]   Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr]   Alexey Gadeev
2001   Maksym Styenkovyy [fr]   Vladimir Zakharov [es]   Tomasz Oleksy [pl]
2003   Maksym Styenkovyy [fr] (2)   Tomasz Oleksy [pl]   Alexandr Pechekhonov [fr]
2005   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky [pl]   Maksym Styenkovyy [fr]   Sergey Sinitsyn [de]
2007   Zhong Qixin [de]   Manuel Escobar [cs]   Sergey Sinitsyn [de]
2009 (10 m)   Zhong Qixin [de] (2)   Alexandr Nigmatulin [cs]   Ivan Novikov [es]
2009 (15 m)[28]   Zhong Qixin [de] (3)   Sergey Abdrakhmanov [pl]   Ning Zhang
2011   Zhong Qixin [de] (4)   Stanislav Kokorin [cs]   Danyil Boldyrev
2012   Zhong Qixin [de] (5)   Libor Hroza [cs]   Dmitry Timofeev [cs]
2014   Danyil Boldyrev   Stanislav Kokorin [cs]   Reza Alipour
2016   Marcin Dzieński   Reza Alipour   Alexandr Shikov [es]
2018   Reza Alipour   Bassa Mawem   Stanislav Kokorin [cs]
2019   Ludovico Fossali   Jan Kříž [cs]   Stanislav Kokorin [cs]
2021   Danyil Boldyrev (2)   Erik Noya Cardona   Noah Bratschi
2023   Matteo Zurloni   Long Jinbao   Rahmad Adi Mulyono

Bouldering

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001   Mauro Calibani [it]   Frédéric Tuscan [cs]   Christian Core
2003   Christian Core   Jérôme Meyer   Tomasz Oleksy [pl]
2005   Salavat Rachmetov [cs]   Kilian Fischhuber   Gérôme Pouvreau [fr]
2007   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Martin Stráník [cs]   Cédric Lachat [fr]
2009   Alexey Rubtsov   Rustam Gelmanov [cs]   David Barrans [pl]
2011   Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2)   Adam Ondra   Rustam Gelmanov [cs]
2012   Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3)   Kilian Fischhuber   Rustam Gelmanov [cs]
2014   Adam Ondra   Jernej Kruder   Jan Hojer
2016   Tomoa Narasaki   Adam Ondra   Manuel Cornu
2018   Kai Harada   Jongwon Chon   Gregor Vezonik [cs]
2019   Tomoa Narasaki (2)   Jakob Schubert   Yannick Flohé
2021   Kokoro Fujii   Tomoa Narasaki   Manuel Cornu
2023   Mickael Mawem   Mejdi Schalck   Dohyun Lee

Combined

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1]   Sean McColl   Thomas Tauporn [de]   Cédric Lachat [fr]
2014[2]   Sean McColl (2)   Jan Hojer   Alban Levier [es]
2016[3][22]   Sean McColl (3)   Manuel Cornu   David Firnenburg [cs]
2018[4]   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra   Jan Hojer
2019   Tomoa Narasaki   Jakob Schubert   Rishat Khaibullin
2021   Yannick Flohé   Philipp Martin   Fedir Samoilov
2023   Jakob Schubert (2)   Colin Duffy   Tomoa Narasaki

Women's Results

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Lead

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Susi Good [fr]   Isabelle Patissier   Robyn Erbesfield
1993   Susi Good [fr] (2)   Robyn Erbesfield   Isabelle Patissier
1995   Robyn Erbesfield   Laurence Guyon [fr]   Liv Sansoz
1997   Liv Sansoz   Muriel Sarkany   Marietta Uhden [de]
1999   Liv Sansoz (2)   Muriel Sarkany   Yelena Ovchinnikova [cs]
2001   Martina Čufar [fr]   Muriel Sarkany   Chloé Minoret [fr]
2003   Muriel Sarkany   Emilie Pouget [pl]   Sandrine Levet
2005   Angela Eiter   Emily Harrington   Akiyo Noguchi
2007   Angela Eiter (2)   Muriel Sarkany   Maja Vidmar
2009   Johanna Ernst   Kim Ja-in   Maja Vidmar
2011   Angela Eiter (3)   Kim Ja-in   Magdalena Röck [cs]
2012   Angela Eiter (4)   Kim Ja-in   Johanna Ernst
2014   Kim Ja-in   Mina Markovič   Magdalena Röck [cs]
2016   Janja Garnbret   Anak Verhoeven   Mina Markovič
2018   Jessica Pilz   Janja Garnbret   Kim Ja-in
2019   Janja Garnbret (2)   Mia Krampl   Ai Mori
2021   Seo Chae-hyun   Natalia Grossman   Laura Rogora
2023   Ai Mori   Janja Garnbret   Seo Chae-hyun

Speed

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Isabelle Dorsimond [fr]   Agnès Brard [es]   Venera Chereshneva [cs]
1993   Olga Bibik [fr]   Isabelle Dorsimond [fr]   Renata Piszczek [pl]
1995   Natalie Richer [fr]   Cécile Avezou [fr]   Renata Piszczek [pl]
1997   Tatiana Ruyga   Irina Zaytseva   Olga Bibik [fr]
1999   Olga Zakharova   Olena Ryepko [fr]   Natalia Novikova [es]
2001   Olena Ryepko [fr]   Maya Piratinskaya   Svetlana Sutkina
2003   Olena Ryepko [fr] (2)   Tatiana Ruyga   Valentina Yurina
2005   Olena Ryepko [fr] (3)   Valentina Yurina   Edyta Ropek [pl]
2007   Tatiana Ruyga (2)   Edyta Ropek [pl]   Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m)   He Cuilian   He Cuifang   Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m)   He Cuilian (2)   He Cuifang   Li Chunhua
2011   Maria Krasavina   Anna Tsyganova   Tamara Kuznetsova
2012   Yulia Levochkina   Iuliia Kaplina   Natalia Titova
2014   Alina Gaidamakina   Klaudia Buczek   Aleksandra Rudzińska
2016   Anna Tsyganova   Anouck Jaubert   Iuliia Kaplina
2018   Aleksandra Mirosław   Anna Brożek   Maria Krasavina
2019   Aleksandra Mirosław (2)   Di Niu   Anouck Jaubert
2021   Natalia Kałucka   Iuliia Kaplina   Aleksandra Mirosław
2023   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi   Emma Hunt   Aleksandra Mirosław

Bouldering

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001   Myriam Motteau [fr]   Sandrine Levet   Nataliya Perlova [cs]
2003   Sandrine Levet   Nataliya Perlova [cs]   Fanny Rogeaux [es]
2005   Olga Shalagina [fr]   Julija Abramčuková [cs]   Věra Kotasová-Kostruhová [cs]
2007   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Olga Bibik
2009   Julija Abramčuková [cs]   Olga Shalagina [fr]   Anna Stöhr
2011   Anna Stöhr (2)   Sasha DiGiulian   Juliane Wurm [de]
2012   Mélanie Sandoz [fr]   Olga Yakovleva [cs]   Anna Stöhr
2014   Juliane Wurm [de]   Alex Puccio   Akiyo Noguchi
2016   Petra Klingler   Miho Nonaka   Akiyo Noguchi
2018   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Staša Gejo
2019   Janja Garnbret (2)   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey
2021   Natalia Grossman   Camilla Moroni [es]   Staša Gejo
2023   Janja Garnbret (3)   Oriane Bertone   Brooke Raboutou

Combined

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012   Kim Ja-in   Cécile Avezou [fr]   Petra Klingler
2014[2]   Charlotte Durif [fr]   Petra Klingler   Mina Markovič
2016[3][22]   Jelena Krasovská [cs]   Claire Buhrfeind [es]   Charlotte Durif [fr]
2018[4]   Janja Garnbret   Sa Sol [de]   Jessica Pilz
2019   Janja Garnbret (2)   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey
2021   Jessica Pilz   Mia Krampl   Elnaz Rekabi
2023   Janja Garnbret (3)   Jessica Pilz   Ai Mori

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). [email protected]. Archived (PDF) from the original on 17 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 July 2017. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. ^ "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. ^ "World Championships".
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. ^ a b c "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). [email protected]. Archived (PDF) from the original on 19 October 2016. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. ^ 2025 CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS TO BE HELD IN SEOUL
  28. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".
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