IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships

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Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Lead Speed
1 2011   Arco 18–19 July X X [1]
2 2012   Paris 12–16 September X [2][3]
3 2014   Gijón 11–14 September X [1] [4][5]
4 2016   Paris 14–18 September X [2] [6][7][8]
5 2018   Innsbruck 10–16 September X [3] [9][10]
6 2019   Briançon[11] 16–17 July X [12]
7 2021   Moscow[13] 15–17 September X
8 2023   Bern 1–12 August X
9 2025   Seoul

Classifications and Categories

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A wide range of different people take part in Paraclimbing, including visually impaired climbers, climbers with limb differences[14] and those with brain injuries or mobility impairments.[15][16] Higher numbers equate to higher functionality (less impairment), lower numbers equate to lower functionality (more impairment).[17]

Paraclimbing categories according to the 2024 IFSC regulations[18]
Category Criteria Example image
Visual impairment B1 Visual acuity is poorer than LogMAR 2.60 (blindness)  
B2 LogMAR of 1.50 − 2.60 and/or visual field of less than 10°
B3 LogMAR of 1 − 1.40 (20/200 − 20/500 on the Snellen chart) and/or visual field of less than 40°
Upper limb(s) AU2 One upper limb has reduced function below the athletes elbow and does not have a functional wrist joint  
AU3 One hand or multiple digits across both hands are absent or have reduced function
Lower limb(s) AL1 Significantly reduced functional use for climbing or absence of bilateral lower limbs  
AL2 Impairment in a single lower limb or leg length difference
Range and power RP1 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with severe impairment to function affecting at least 2 limbs or a single upper limb is absent or has severely limited functional use  
RP2 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with moderate impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs
RP3 Impairment across all eligible impairment types with mild impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs

In the 2022-2023 season AU1 was permanently combined with RP1, and a new category of upper arm limb difference was added. AU3 is the designated sport class for athletes with limb differences between the wrist and tips of the fingers. With a minimum impairment of a loss of 6 finger joints across both hands. Prior to the creation of this sport class many AU3 athletes classified in RP3.

Merging

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Merging order of paraclimbing categories[19]

If there is an insufficient number of competitors in a given category, this category can be merged into another, 'harder' category. In world championships at least six athletes from four countries must compete in each category. Merges may be performed sequentially until the required number of competitors is met.[18]

Men's results

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Speed

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[20] Amputee Arm PD   Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD   Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Günther Grausam   Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD   András Szijártó   Matteo Alberghini   Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD   Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1   Matteo Stefani   Manuel Cepero Gutierrez   Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2   Simone Salvagnin   Oliviero Bellinzani -
Visual Impairment B3   Domingo Carretero Campon   Ricardo Pérez Amado -

Lead

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[21] Amputee Arm PD   Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD   Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD   Mineo Ono   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD   András Szijártó   Matteo Masento   Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD   Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1   Matteo Stefani   Manuel Cepero Gutierrez   Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2   Koichiro Kobayashi   Masayoshi Idomoto   Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3   Ricardo Pérez Amado   Domingo Carretero Campon -
2012 Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Mineo Ono   Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1   Manikandan Kumar   Raphael Nishimura   Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1   Nicolas Moineau   Kenji Iwamoto   Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2   Sho Aita   Koichiro Kobayashi   Simone Salvagnin
2014 Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Ronald Dickson   Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Nicolas Moineau   Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A   Mathieu Besnard   Manikandan Kumar   Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B   András Szijártó   Alessio Cornamusini   Serge Laurencin
2016 B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Nicolas Moineau   Matteo Stefani
B2   Sho Aita   Mathieu Barbe   Simone Salvagnin
AL-2   Albert Guardia Ferrer   Julien Gasc   Iván Germán Pascual
RP1   Korbinian Franck   Nils Helsper   Connor King
RP2   Nive Porat   Alessio Cornamusini   Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Gregor Selak
2018 AU-2   Matthew Phillips   Trevor Smith   Maksim Maiorov
B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Matteo Stefani   Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2   Justin Salas   Raul Simon Franco   Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2   Thierry Delarue   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1   Alessio Cornamusini   Korbinian Franck   Nils Helsper
RP2   Behnam Khalaji   Nive Porat   Manikandan Kumar
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Michael Cleverdon   Gregor Selak
2019 AU-2   Matthew Phillips   Mor Michael Sapir   Kevin Bartke
B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo   Daniil Lisichenko
B2   Sho Aita   Justin Salas   Richard Slocock
B3   Cosmin Florin Candoi   Lux Losey Sail   Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2   Thierry Delarue   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1   Bastien Thomas   Alessio Cornamusini   Korbinian Franck
RP2   Behnam Khalaji   Benjamin Mayforth   Manikandan Kumar
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Gregor Selak
2021[22] B1   Sho Aita   Razvan Nedu   Jesse Dufton
B2   Fumiya Hamanoue   Richard Slocock   Raul Simon Franco
RP1   Angelino Zeller [de]   Tanner Cislaw   Korbinian Franck
RP2   Mor Michael Sapir   Benjamin Mayforth   Bastien Thomas
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Iman Edrisi
AL1   Thierry Delarue   Frederik Leys   Shuhei Yuki
AU2   Matthew Phillips   Brian Zarzuela   Kevin Bartke
2023 B1   Sho Aita   Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo   Răzvan Nedu
B2   Fumiya Hamanoue   Richard Slocock   Guillermo Pelegrín Gómez
B3   Cosmin Florin Candoi   Kazuhiro Minowada   Lux Losey Sail
AL1   Angelino Zeller [de]   Markus Pösendorfer   Tanner Cislaw
AL2   Thierry Delarue   Ethan Zilz   Albert Guardia Ferrer
AU2   Isak Ripman   Kevin Bartke   Brian Zarzuela
AU3   Mor Michael Sapir   Nobuhiro Yusaraoka   Dominic Geisseler
RP1   Aloïs Pottier   Elliott Nguyen   Takuya Okada
RP2   Mor Michael Sapir   Benjamin Mayforth   Bastien Thomas
RP3   Iván Muñoz Escolar   Benjamin Mayforth   Manikandan Kumar

Women's Results

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Speed

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[20] Amputee Arm PD   Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD   Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1   Silvia Parente   Dilyara Rakhmankulova -
Visual Impairment B2   Tatiana Panova - -

Lead

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Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[21] Amputee Arm PD   Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD   Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1   Dilyara Rakhmankulova   Silvia Parente -
Visual Impairment B2   Tatiana Panova - -
2012 Visual Impairment   Dilyara Rakhmankulova   Silvia Parente   Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability   Frances Brown   Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà   Valentyna Kurshakova
2014 Amputee Leg PD   Christa Brelsford   Kate Sawford   Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2   Alessia Refolo   Tanja Glusic   Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A   Elodie Orbaen   Tiziana Paolini   Oriane Moreno
2016 AU-2   Maureen Beck   Melinda Vigh   Lucia Capovilla
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Kate Sawford   Esme Harte
RP3   Elodie Orbaen   Oriane Moreno   Aika Yoshida
2018 AU-2   Solenne Piret [fr; de]   Melinda Vigh   Maureen Beck
B2   Abigail Robinson   Whiteny Pesek   Tanja Glusic
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Kate Sawford   Emily Stephenson
RP2   Hannah Baldwin   Marlene Prat   Anita Aggarwal
RP3   Aika Yoshida   Momoko Yoshida   Elodie Orbaen
2019 AU-2   Solenne Piret [fr; de]   Maureen Beck   Melinda Vigh
B2   Abigail Robinson   Yumi Ejiri   Edith Scheinecker
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Joanna Newton   Jaqueline Fritz
RP2   Hannah Baldwin   Anita Aggarwal   Leanora Volpe
RP3   Aika Yoshida   Momoko Yoshida   Martha Evans
2021 B2   Abigail Robinson   Edith Scheinecker   Nadia Bredice
B3   Ionela Grecu   Tanja Glusic   Sunita Dhondappanavar
RP1   Pavitra Vandenhoven   Eva Mol   Marta Peche Salinero
RP2   Solenne Piret [fr; de]   Leanora Volpe   Lucia Capovilla
RP3   Lucie Jarrige   Martha Evans   Katharina Ritt
2023 B1 in B2
B2   Abigail Robinson   Seneida Biendarra   Edith Scheinecker
B3   Sunita Dhondappanavar   Mika Maeoka   Yumi Ejiri
AL1 in RP1
AL2   Lucie Jarrige   Sarah Larcombe   Rachel Maia
AU2   Solenne Piret [fr; de]   Lucia Capovilla   Maureen Beck
AU3 in RP3
RP1   Pavitra Vandenhoven   Melissa Ruiz   Marta Peche Salinero
RP2   Dina Eivik   Jasmin Plank   Anna Devries
RP3   Marina Dias   Christiane Luttikhuizen   Martha Evans

References

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  1. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 1 June 2015. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  2. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 5 March 2014. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original (PDF) on 17 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ "World Championships".
  5. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on 6 July 2017. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original (PDF) on 19 October 2016. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  11. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  12. ^ "IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019".
  13. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  14. ^ "World champs to be valuable experience for climber". NZ Herald. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  15. ^ "ARTICLE: The Rise of the UK Paraclimbing Community". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  16. ^ "Hiking Mt. Whitney is tough. With a spinal cord injury, it's an endless suffer-fest". Los Angeles Times. 2021-09-22. Retrieved 2022-11-03.
  17. ^ "Classification". Paraclimbing News. Retrieved 2022-06-28.
  18. ^ a b "Paraclimbing routesetting guidelines - updated march 2023" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 2023.
  19. ^ "Paraclimbing routesetting guidelines - updated march 2023" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 2023.
  20. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED" (PDF).
  21. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD" (PDF).
  22. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Moscow 2021". Retrieved 2023-08-12.
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