Ai Mori (森 秋彩, Mori Ai, born September 17, 2003) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.
 Mori in 2019 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Born | September 17, 2003 Ibaraki, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 154 cm (5 ft 1 in)[2] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | First Japanese climber to win the gold in a World Championships for lead climbing.[1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.
Climbing career
editIn 2016, Mori won Lead Japan Cup, becoming the youngest winner of the competition at age 12.[3] She has repeated as the national lead champion in 2018, 2020, 2021, and 2022. Mori also won the Boulder Japan Cup in 2021 and finished second place in 2018.[4]
Mori made her senior international competition climbing debut in 2019, winning two bronze medals in lead and one in bouldering World Cups.[5][6][7][8] Later that year, at age 15, she placed third in the lead category at the IFSC Climbing World Championships,[9] becoming the youngest Japanese climber to medal at the World Championship. Akiyo Noguchi had held the previous record with her 2005 bronze medal in lead at age 16.[10][11] In November and December 2019, Mori finished fifth in the combined category at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse, France. However, Japan had already filled its athlete quota for the 2020 Olympic Games, so Mori did not compete at the Games despite finishing in qualifying places.[12]
In September 2022, Mori took first place at the World Cup event in Koper, Slovenia,[13] finishing ahead of second-place finisher Janja Garnbret, who had won all four lead World Cups of the season coming into Koper.[14] Mori was competing in her first World Cup event of the year, and her first international event of any kind since the 2020 Olympic qualifying event in 2019.[15] She followed this up with first-place finishes in another two World Cups events, at the lead event in Edinburgh, Scotland,[16] and the season-ending combined boulder and lead event in Morioka, Japan.[17]
In 2023, Mori competed in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and became the world champion in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a world title in the discipline.[18] She also qualified for the 2024 Olympics by placing third in the combined event at the World Championships.[19]
In 2024, Mori finished in fourth place in the combined event at the Olympics.[20][21] On October 6, she won the silver medal at the last event of the 2024 IFSC Climbing World Cup,[22] bringing her to third place in the year's ranking.[23]
Climbing style
editMori is known for her strong performances in lead climbing compared to bouldering. She excels in endurance based routes where her static climbing style plays a crucial role.[24][25] During boulder competition Mori has been praised by commentators for her "incredible footwork".[26] She trains four times a week.[27]
Mori has stated in 2022 that she prefers climbing outside of competitions: "I always like pushing myself to my limits, I can only do that in training. In comps if you make a mistake, your ranking changes dramatically. I don't want to feel pressure at every move. I like climbing freely."[28] In 2023 she stated that she had learned to enjoy competitions after a previous break and that she plans on competing for a maximum of 10 years.[29]
Personal life
editAs of 2023, Mori was a student at the University of Tsukuba and living with her parents, planning to live alone in the future.[30] She has a younger brother and is a fan of the Japanese pop band Sekai no Owari.[31]
Rankings
edit| [32] | 2019 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 11 | 4 | 3 |
| Bouldering | 20 | - | 20 | 26 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | 10 | 1 | - | - |
| Discipline[33] | ||
|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 2023 | |
| Lead | 3 | 1 |
| Bouldering | 31 | 6 |
| Speed | 60 | - |
| Combined | 6 | 3 |
| Discipline[33] | ||
|---|---|---|
| 2017 Youth B |
2018 Youth B | |
| Lead | 1 | - |
| Bouldering | 7 | 20 |
| Speed | 43 | 44 |
| Combined | 2 | - |
| [33] | 2017 Youth B |
2018 Youth B |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 2 |
| Bouldering | 3 | 4 |
| Speed | 5 | 20 |
| [34] | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 12 | 2 | 1 | 1 | - | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 11 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 4 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 11 | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 3 | 8 | - | 1 | 1 |
World Cup podiums
editLead
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2022 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2023 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| Total | 4 | 4 | 1 | 9 |
Bouldering
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
Combined (Boulder & Lead)
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
Main achievements
editNational Championships Bouldering
Bouldering Youth Japan Championship
edit2016 (2nd) Youth C Champion 2018 (4th) Youth B Champion Bouldering Japan Cup 2021 (16th) Winner Lead
JOC Junior Olympic Cup
edit2015 (18th) Youth C Champion 2016 (19th) Youth C Champion 2017 (20th) Youth B Champion Lead Youth Japan Championship 2016 (4th) Youth C Champion 2017 (5th) Youth B Champion 2019 (7th) Youth A Champion
Lead Japan Cup
edit2016 (30th) Winner 2017 (31st) Winner 2020 (33rd) Winner 2021 (34th) Winner 2022 (35th) Winner 2023 (36th) Winner 2024 (37th) Winner
Winner of the Japan Championship Lead Competition (2018)
World Cup
editBouldering
2019: Meiringen 27th, Chongqing 21st, Wujiang 3rd 2023 Hachioji 8th, Seoul 19th, Innsbruck 5th 2024 Innsbruck 15th
Lead
2019: Villars 3rd, Chamonix 4th, Kurani 5th, Xiamen 9th, Inzai 20th 2022 Koper 1st, Edinburgh 1st 2023 Innsbruck 2nd, Koper 2nd, Wujiang 1st 2024 Innsbruck 2nd, Chamonix 1st, Seoul 2nd
Combined
2022 Morioka 1st place
References
edit- ^ "Lead Records Broken by Mori and Schubert in Bern". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 6 August 2023.
- ^ "Ai Mori's profile on 8a.nu". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "第30回リードジャパンカップ2016 女子は12歳の森秋彩が歴代最年少優勝、男子は是永敬一郎が念願の初優勝！" (in Japanese). 14 June 2016. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "森 秋彩 Ai Mori". Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "Janja Garnbret Wins Fourth Straight Boulder World Cup". Gripped Magazine. 6 May 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 2019 - Report". UKClimbing. 8 July 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup Villars 2019 - Lead Finals". YouTube. 6 July 2019. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup Wujiang 2019 - Bouldering Finals". YouTube. 5 May 2019. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji 2019 - LEAD Finals". YouTube. 15 August 2019. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "１５歳・森秋彩、銅 野口啓代超え日本勢最年少表彰台で東京五輪望み「気持ちは前向き」" (in Japanese). Sports Hochi. 16 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "Teenage climber Ai Mori earns bronze in women's lead competition at world championships". Japan Times. 16 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 20, 2019.
- ^ Boscoe, Charlie (2 December 2019). "IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse - Report". UKC. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Burgman, John (3 September 2022). "World Cup Upset; Garnbret Gracious in Defeat; Raboutou Makes Podium. Results". Climbing. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Burke, Patrick (3 September 2022). "Mori ends Garnbret's IFSC World Cup lead dominance in Koper". inside the game. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "TROIS FRANÇAIS EN DEMI-FINALE DE LA COUPE DU MONDE DE KOPER !". Planet Grimpe (in French). 2 September 2022. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Creech, Hayes (12 September 2022). "Ai Mori and Jesse Grupper win lead climbing IFSC World Cup 2022 golds in Edinburgh - Results". Olympics. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
- ^ "Sport climbing: Teenager Ai Mori grabs World Cup gold for Japan in Iwate". Kyodo News. 22 October 2022. Retrieved 22 October 2022.
- ^ "Ai Mori captures Japan's first lead world championship". The Japan Times. 2023-08-07. Retrieved 2023-08-07.
- ^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
- ^ "Women's Boulder & Lead, Final Lead Results". Olympics. Retrieved 11 August 2024.
- ^ Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-10-06.
- ^ "IFSC World Cup Seoul 2024". Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2024 Lead". Retrieved 2024-07-02.
- ^ "Olympics 2024: Ai Mori". ukclimbing. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
- ^ (Japan Ace Battle) Tomoa, Meichi and Ikedai challenge Ai Mori to an impossible contest. TAMY Climbing Channel. Feb 21, 2022. Retrieved 9 August 2024 – via YouTube.
- ^ Ai Mori Impressive Tops in Boulder Competition || Morioka. Climbing Mood. Retrieved 21 September 2024 – via YouTube.
- ^ クライミングW杯3連覇 森秋彩19歳独占インタビュー【牛乳石鹸公式】 [Exclusive interview with 19-year-old Mori Ai, who won the climbing World Cup three times in a row [Official Cow Soap]]. cowsoap1909. Apr 7, 2023. Archived from the original on 24 January 2024. Retrieved 13 August 2024.
- ^ [Interview] Akiyo Noguchi Talks Climbing with Next Generational Ace Ai Mori !. TAMY Climbing Channel. Jan 19, 2022. Retrieved 9 August 2024 – via YouTube.
- ^ "Sport climbing Ai Mori Special Interview". Sumitomo Corporation. 2023-10-02. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
- ^ "Sport climbing Ai Mori Special Interview". Sumitomo Corporation. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
- ^ "Exclusive interview with 19-year-old Mori Ai, who won the climbing World Cup three times in a row [Official Cow Soap]". cowsoap1909 youtube channel. 6 April 2023. Archived from the original on 24 January 2024. Retrieved 13 August 2024.
- ^ "Ai MORI". IFSC Results Service. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ a b c d IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Mori's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "Mori's JMSCA profile and rankings". August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
External links
edit- Feel Gravity, Think Nature on Youtube: Mori's outdoor climbs.
- Ai Mori IFSC World Cup Finals 2022
