Nancy Noemí Silvestrini (5 April 1972; Mendoza, Argentina - 5 July 2003; Gasherbrum I, Pakistán) was an Argentinian alpinist who was known for her six summits of Aconcagua and for being the first Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander.[1]
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Full name | Nancy Noemí Silvestrini |
| Born | 5 April 1972 Guaymallén Mendoza, Argentina |
| Died | 5 July 2003 (aged 31) Gasherbrum I, Pakistan |
| Nationality | Argentina |
| Career | |
| Notable ascents | First Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander |
Biography
editOriginally trained as a computer systems analyst, she sought refuge in the mountains and began climbing in 1996 after her brother and husband were killed in separate accidents.[2] She trained at the Valentín Ugarte Guide School and worked for many years as a guide on Cerro Aconcagua (6962 m), the highest mountain in America.[3]
In 1999, she summited Argentina's Monte Pissis volcano.[2] Later climbed Nevado Sajama and Huayna Potosí in Bolivia, and Tocllaraju in Peru.[1] On 1 June 2003 she joined an expedition team of Spanish climbers including Eva Zarzuelo, Jorge Egocheaga, José Manuel Buenaga for an attempt on Gasherbrum.[4]
Final climb
editOn 5 July 2003, at the age of 31, she summited Gasherbrum I, becoming the first Argentine woman to do so.[1] As the team descended, a strong storm battered the climbers between the summit and Camp III at 7,300 meters.[5] Nancy fell and broke her arm, but was able to recover.[6] As she got up, high winds tore Nancy and José Manuel Buenaga Villanueva from the mountain, where they fell to their deaths at 6,300m.[4] Nancy fell into a crevasse on the Pakistani side of the mountain. Buenaga Villanueva was swept off towards the Chinese side.[2] Buenaga's body was found and buried on the mountain, Nancy's was unable to be recovered.[7]
References
edit- ^ a b c Mujeres a la Cumbre (4 November 2020). "Mujeres con historia: Nancy Silvestrini". Mujeres a la Cumbre. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ a b c Herminio Hernández, José. "Biography of Nancy Noemí Silvestrini". Argentine Mountain Cultural Center www.culturademontania.org.ar. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ "Nancy Silvestrini, la primera argentina en coronar un ochomil". www.notimerica.com. 5 July 2017. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ a b Gonzalez, Carlos (8 March 2021). "ALPINISMONLINE MAGAZINE | Noticias, Informacion, Comunidad". Alpinismoline Magazine. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ "Accidente en el Gasherbrum 1". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 7 July 2003. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ Minoli, Micaela Blanco (9 February 2024). "El trágico desenlace de la primera andinista argentina que escaló el Himalaya". MdzOnline (in Spanish). Retrieved 14 June 2024.
- ^ "Accidente en el Gasherbrum 1". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 7 July 2003. Retrieved 14 June 2024.