Wikipedia

Patrick Grant (designer)

This article is about the fashion designer. For other people with a similar name, see Patrick Grant (disambiguation).

Patrick James Grant FRSA (born 1 May 1972) is a Scottish[4] clothier, businessman, television personality and author who is currently the director of Community Clothing and textile manufacturer Cookson & Clegg. He is the former director of bespoke tailors Norton & Sons of Savile Row and E. Tautz & Sons clothing line. Since 2013, he has been a judge on the BBC One reality series The Great British Sewing Bee.

Patrick Grant
Born
Patrick James Grant[1]

(1972-05-01) 1 May 1972 (age 52)[2]
Edinburgh, Scotland
EducationUniversity of Leeds
New College, Oxford
Occupation(s)Clothier, businessman, author
Labels
AwardsMenswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards 2010[3]

After taking over Norton & Sons in 2005, Grant has been credited with rejuvenating the once ailing business.[5][6] He relaunched E. Tautz & Sons as a ready to wear label in 2009, for which he was awarded the Menswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards in 2010.[3]

Grant is a critic of the fashion industry, particularly the environmental damage caused by fast fashion and synthetic clothing. His book Less: Stop Buying So Much Rubbish — How Having Fewer, Better Things Can Make Us Happier was published by HarperCollins in May 2024.[7]

Early life and education

edit

Grant was born in Edinburgh, and raised in the city's Morningside district.[8] His Musselburgh-born father, James (1940–2020), managed the pop band Marmalade before becoming an accountant at RMJM and mini rugby coach.[9][8][10] His mother, Susan, worked for the University of Edinburgh.[11] His maternal grandfather, Flt. Lt. Walter Henry Ewen FitzEarle of Rosskeen, was killed in action in the Second World War when his plane was shot down while flying for the Royal Air Force;[12][13][14] Grant keeps his wardrobe trunk, which had previously belonged to his great-grandfather Walter FitzEarle, the bandmaster of the King's Own Scottish Borderers, in his design studio.[15] His other grandfather worked as a yarn designer in Galashiels, Scottish Borders.[16] He has a younger sister, Victoria, who works for his businesses.[17]

Grant attended South Morningside Primary School, then Edinburgh Academy before joining Barnard Castle School as a boarding pupil. Grant explained that "My parents thought it would be better for me to be away from home. They have good friends who live not far from Barnard Castle and their two sons were there. So they knew the school and said it was good for rugby and I was mad on rugby."[8] Whilst at Barnard Castle he represented Scotland at rugby union at U18 and U19 level. He took a gap year after school and played for West Hartlepool R.F.C.,[16] although his rugby career was cut short by a shoulder injury.[11] Grant lists his early fashion influences as Barbour, Burberry, Hunter, Lyle & Scott and Pringle.[11]

Grant completed a degree in material sciences at the University of Leeds in 1994.[18] He chose an engineering degree because of "a fascination with how things are made".[19] His course included a year spent at the University of Orleans.[20]

Following graduation Grant relocated to the United States where he worked as a ski instructor,[11] as a counsellor at a summer camp in Santa Cruz, California, as a nanny, a landscape gardener, and a model agent.[21] He returned to Britain in 1995 to take up a career in marketing, first at cable-makers BICC and Corning, before moving to optical components manufacturer Bookham Technology in 2000.[22] From 2004, Grant studied for a MBA degree, funded by Bookham, at Saïd Business School, University of Oxford, where he was a member of New College.[23] His thesis, completed in October 2005, concerned the regeneration of luxury fashion brands such as Burberry, and was titled "Is Burberry's formula for brand revitalisation replicable?".[3]

Career

edit

Norton & Sons

edit
Further information: Norton & Sons

Whilst at Saïd in 2005, Grant learned that Norton & Sons was being advertised for sale by the Granger family.[22] To pursue the sale, he accepted voluntary redundancy from Bookham. He was surprised at how low the asking price was, commenting: "You could pay more for a car. We're not talking millions but hundreds of thousands of pounds."[24] Grant was able to afford the business by selling his house, his car "and everything else" as well as borrowing from a bank and raising money from friends; two former Oxford classmates, friends from Leeds, his grandmother, and his former chief executive at Bookham.[22] The deal was completed in December 2005.[22]

Grant stated: "It was a business in terrible shape; a wonderful artisanal tailor not making the best of its assets." Over three years, he managed to rejuvenate the business by focusing on its heritage and increasing innovation and enthusiasm among management.[3][25] The company had attempted to diversify by selling guns and offering sporting tours; Grant re-concentrated the business on tailoring.[26] By 2011, Norton's customer base had increased from around 20 customers in 2005, to several hundred, tripling the number of suits made.[27] The business made a small profit in 2010 and tripled revenue. Revenue for all his businesses approached £75 million a year in 2018.[28]

Following the COVID-19 pandemic, Grant sold the majority stake of Norton & Sons to James Sleater, owner of Savile Row tailor the Cad & the Dandy, and Ian Meiers. Grant remains a minority stake holder in the company.[29]

E. Tautz & Sons

edit
Further information: E. Tautz & Sons

Grant relaunched the defunct Norton subsidiary E. Tautz & Sons in 2009 as a ready-to-wear brand. In recognition for his work with Tautz, he was named Menswear Designer of 2010 at the British Fashion Awards.[30] The label is a large component of the Norton business, with particular success in Asia.[3] The label tended to be more experimental than the Norton line, with Grant explaining that with Tautz "We don't need to be wedded too much to the idea of the tailored suit."[31]

E. Tautz appeared at London Fashion Week Men's spring/summer show in January 2020, but went out of business in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic.[7]

Hammond & Co

edit

In April 2013, it was announced that Grant would be relaunching the Norton subsidiary Hammond & Co. as a diffusion line available exclusively at British clothing retailer Debenhams.[32] The line was extremely successful but the retailer closed its stores in 2021.

Cookson & Clegg

edit

In 2015, Grant purchased Blackburn clothing manufacturer Cookson & Clegg, saving the factory from closure. Cookson & Clegg was founded in 1860. The firm began as leather curriers and manufacturers of boot uppers. By the 1930s they were producing jerkins, flying helmets and other leather products for the British Army. Throughout the later part of the 20th century Cookson & Clegg were a major supplier of military outerwear, legwear and other sewn products to the British Army and other armed forces. Today the firm manufactures outerwear, in both traditional woven and modern technical fabrics, jeans, and chinos for some UK clothing brands.

Community Clothing

edit
Further information: Community Clothing

In 2016 Grant launched the sustainable clothing brand Community Clothing, a social enterprise and manufacturers co-operative based in Blackburn, which produces a line of clothing staples in order to provide consistent employment at British clothing mills and factories, while reducing clothing waste.[33][34]

Other fashion work

edit

Grant worked with Barbour as Creative Director of their Beacon Heritage line in October 2012.[35]

Media work

edit

Grant is best known by the general public for his work as a judge on the BBC television series The Great British Sewing Bee.[36] He has appeared in the British editions of GQ and Esquire magazines.[36] He has appeared as a guest on BBC television and radio programmes, such as Breakfast, Countryfile and Steve Wright in the Afternoon.

In May 2023, Grant presented the documentary Coronation Tailors: Fit for a King (BBC Two) about the preparation of military dress on display during the Coronation of King Charles III. The documentary focused on the family-run business Kashket & Partners, which made more than 6,000 uniforms for the parade.[37]

Awards

edit

In 2013 Grant was made an Honorary Professor in Business at Glasgow Caledonian University. He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts (FRSA) in 2016. In 2017, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate by Heriot Watt University's School of Textiles and Design. In 2018, he was named co-chair of the Prince of Wales' charity Future Textiles, an organisation working to sustain skills and create jobs in the UK's garment making industry.[38]

Personal life

edit

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Grant moved from London to Lancashire in March 2020 to run his factory in Blackburn, where he was making personal protective equipment (PPE) for the NHS.[39][40] He now divides his time between London and Lancashire.[41]

Grant's partner is a dentist whom he met in 2022.[41] He was previously in a relationship with fellow designer Katie Hillier from 2007 to 2015.[42][39][43]

Grant's father died after contracting COVID-19 in 2020.[44] His mother still lives in Morningside.[11]

Bibliography

edit
  • Grant, Patrick, ed. (2014). Original Man: the Tautz Compendium of Less Ordinary Gentlemen. Berlin: Gestalten. ISBN 978-3-89955-552-3.
  • Grant, Patrick (2024). Less: Stop Buying So Much Rubbish: How Having Fewer, Better Things Can Make Us Happier. HarperCollins. p. 368. ISBN 0-00-866400-5.
  • Grant, Patrick (2024). The Savile Row Suit: The Art of Hand Tailoring on Savile Row. Berlin: Gestalten. p. 176. ISBN 3-96704-125-5.

References

edit
  1. ^ "Statutory registers - Births". Scotland's People. National Records of Scotland and the Court of the Lord Lyon.
  2. ^ "Patrick Grant". Debenhams. Retrieved 26 July 2020.
  3. ^ a b c d e "From Saïd Business School to Savile Row". Oxford Today. 15 March 2013. Archived from the original on 24 June 2013. Retrieved 15 March 2013.
  4. ^ Hannah, Julie (12 September 2014). "Great British Sewing Bee star Patrick Grant reveals how he turned his love of style into a successful career". Daily Record. Retrieved 1 May 2020. I feel deeply Scottish and a lot of what I do is inspired by Scotland.
  5. ^ Patterson, Troy (8 December 2016). "The English Are Coming for Your Closet". Bloomberg. Retrieved 20 April 2020.
  6. ^ "Reviving Savile Row Suit Maker Norton & Sons". Bloomberg. 5 May 2011.
  7. ^ a b Bottomley, Tom (1 May 2024). "The Interview: Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons and Community Clothing on Savile Row, sustainability and Sewing Bee". TheIndustry.fashion. Retrieved 16 May 2024.
  8. ^ a b c Didcock, Barry (11 October 2013). "Patrick Grant: smooth operator". The Glasgow Herald. Retrieved 31 May 2020.
  9. ^ Anderson, Jock (14 April 2020). "Obituary: Jim Grant". The Scotsman. Retrieved 29 December 2020.
  10. ^ Ryder, Bethan (17 October 2013). "The Business: Patrick Grant". The Daily Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on 19 November 2013.
  11. ^ a b c d e "Tailor Patrick Grant reveals how Hibs fans helped inspire a clothes passion". The Scotsman. 19 February 2010. Retrieved 20 April 2020.
  12. ^ "Roll of Honour". Scottish National War Memorial. Retrieved 15 May 2023.
  13. ^ Ellison, Jo (24 October 2014). "The poppy: an enduring symbol of war and peace". Financial Times. Retrieved 28 April 2021.
  14. ^ "War Casualties". Berwickshire News and General Advertiser. 15 August 1944. Retrieved 28 May 2020.
  15. ^ Evans, Christina Ohly (4 March 2020). "The Aesthete: Patrick Grant talks personal taste". The Financial Times. Retrieved 28 May 2020.
  16. ^ a b "Patrick Grant @theNorthernArt". Northern School of Art. 25 November 2020. Retrieved 9 March 2021.
  17. ^ Howell, Madeleine (25 April 2020). "Sewing Bee's Patrick Grant: 'I had pages from Vogue stuck on my wall at boarding school'". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 29 April 2020.
  18. ^ "Suited to a Savile Row challenge". Evening Standard. 7 March 2006.
  19. ^ "The Emperor's New Clothes". Leeds Alumni Magazine: 2. 2011. Archived from the original on 26 November 2014.
  20. ^ Grant, Patrick (1 February 2012). "Where there's tea, there's hope". GQ.co.uk. Archived from the original on 25 December 2013. Retrieved 15 April 2013.
  21. ^ "Close up: Patrick Grant, owner of Norton & Sons and creative director of E Tautz". drapersonline.com. 12 July 2013. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
  22. ^ a b c d Wylie, Ian (21 February 2011). "Saïd fashions a tailor-made entrepreneur". Financial Times. Retrieved 15 April 2013.
  23. ^ McMeekin, Elizabeth (9 November 2011). "Fashionable Scot has designs on tartan-clad Pudsey Bear". heraldscotland.com. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  24. ^ Seidler, Ben (17 January 2011). "Reinventing Classic". International Herald Tribune.
  25. ^ "Patrick Grant". 30 January 2012. Archived from the original on 30 January 2012. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
  26. ^ Parker, Olivia (16 April 2013). "My perfect weekend: Patrick Grant, fashion designer". The Daily Telegraph. London. Retrieved 16 April 2013.
  27. ^ Coomber, Steve (5 October 2011). "Savile Row tailoring house was a perfect fit". The Times.
  28. ^ Wintle, Angela (6 May 2018). "Patrick Grant: 'I would drink champagne and then get the bus home'". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 28 April 2021.
  29. ^ Hu, Zoe (16 June 2023). "Norton & Sons' new owner: 'We want to attract newer, younger blood'". Drapers. Retrieved 16 May 2024.
  30. ^ "British Fashion Awards". 10 March 2012. Archived from the original on 10 March 2012. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
  31. ^ Fury, Alexander (16 June 2013). "British fashion week for men: The key players". The Independent on Sunday. London. Archived from the original on 25 May 2022. Retrieved 23 June 2013.
  32. ^ Sowray, Bibby (4 April 2013). "Tailor Patrick Grant joins Designers at Debenhams". Daily Telegraph. London. Retrieved 8 April 2013.
  33. ^ Theodosi, Natalie (17 February 2016). "Patrick Grant Launches Nonprofit Label, Community Clothing". WWD. Retrieved 9 May 2023.
  34. ^ Dool, Steve (27 April 2018). "The Designer Staging His Own Industrial Revolution". GQ. Retrieved 9 May 2023.
  35. ^ "Barbour invigorates its premium collections with new collaborations". drapersonline.com. 15 October 2012. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
  36. ^ a b Fury, Alexander (26 October 2014). "Designer Patrick Grant, interview: The tailor of Duke Street". The Independent. Archived from the original on 25 May 2022. Retrieved 8 December 2014.
  37. ^ Singh, Anita (3 May 2023). "Coronation Tailors, BBC Two, review: gilded pomp and ceremony fit for a King – or pooch". The Telegraph. Retrieved 7 May 2023.
  38. ^ "Patrick Grant is part of the BoF 500". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 1 May 2020.
  39. ^ a b Edwardes, Charlotte (20 February 2016). "Patrick Grant: My mum was appalled by the money I spent on clothes". The Times. Retrieved 28 April 2020.
  40. ^ Amanda Cable (16 September 2016). "Patrick Grant: 'Half my house is from eBay'". House Beautiful. Retrieved 28 April 2021.
  41. ^ a b Odell, Michael (29 April 2023). "Patrick Grant: 'The King has style — I'm not sure about the princes'". The Times. Retrieved 7 May 2023.
  42. ^ "How We Met: Katie Hillier & Patrick Grant". The Independent. 14 October 2012. Archived from the original on 25 May 2022. Retrieved 29 April 2020.
  43. ^ Godwin, Richard (7 March 2016). "Patrick Grant talks classic clothes, capitalism & Kickstarter campaigning". standard.co.uk. Retrieved 5 April 2018.
  44. ^ Grant, Patrick. "A year ago my dad died of covid". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 1 April 2021.
edit
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Patrick_Grant_(designer)&oldid=1235810110"