The Pusher machine was a lace making machine, based on the bobbinet, that was invented in 1812 Samuel Clark and James Mart.
Context
editIn 1812 Samuel Clark and James Mart(sic) constructed a machine that was capable of working a pattern and net at the same time. A pusher operated each bobbin and carriage independently, allowing almost unlimited designs and styles. The machine, however, was slow, delicate, costly and could produce only short "webs" of about two by four yards.[1] There is no record of the original specifications, but its origin is referenced in two patent applications made to improve it lodged in 1825, by Joseph Crowder of New Radford[2] and his associates Messrs Hall and Day. Variations on the basic machine were the Crowder and Day's improved pusher and Kendall and Morley's machine.[3]
The machine was modified by John Synyer in 1829.[4] to allow for bullet holes to be inserted in the plain twist net. A modification was made in 1831 to copy blondes, Marmaduke Miller adder a device to add loops and purls to the lace in 1827. Production had its heyday in the 1850s and ceased around 1870-1880.[5]
Machine
editThe warp beam was at the top, and the work roller at the bottom. There was a sley and a guide bar. The carriages with their bobbins (brass bobbins) slid on a concave comb (bolt). In the 1825 modification, the carriages were suspended from an upwardly arching comb. The carriages are propelled by individual pusher rods which strike the ears on the carriage. There was pusher bar (later there were four) but there is a fetcher bar (locker bar) which act in conjunctions with the pushers.[6] It was slow and in the early machine, 14 actions were required to form each course; in 1825 this had been reduced to ten. The bobbins were necessarily small and this restricted the length of a single piece to about 4 metres.[6] The actions were controlled by an organ barrel until the adoption of the Jacquard process in 1839. This was achieved by James Wright of Radford.[7]
Product
editThe bobbinet was best producing straight net, but the Pusher was slow and could be used to imitate handlace of any complexity though could't put in liners leaving the impression of sharpness from the lace. When in William IV reign, tatting and putting on fancies became popular, the Pusher was in great demand. The pusher was particularly good at making large shawls or capes in the style of Chantilly lace. It could replicate the grille or half-stitch which defeated the Leavers machine. It could be hand lined using a Cornely machine.
Lace was dependent on fashion. In 1867 women stopped wearing shawls, and the Franco-Prussian War cut off the trade with France there was market for this lace. The redundant Pushers were scrapped. In 1920, a retailer was advertising 'Real Alençon' machine lace produced on a Pusher in Lyon, France, and in 1959 there were a 'narrow range of silk nets' being produced on Pushers in Lyon.[8]
References
editNotes
edit- ^ Mahin 1922.
- ^ Tilloch, Alexander; Taylor, Richard, eds. (January–June 1825). "List of New Patents". The Philosophical Magazine and Journal. 65. London: 472. Retrieved 31 May 2019.
- ^ Earnshaw 1986, p. 97.
- ^ Felkin 1867, p. 293.
- ^ Earnshaw 1986, pp. 96–98.
- ^ a b Earnshaw 1986, pp. 98, 99.
- ^ Earnshaw 1986, p. 100.
- ^ Earnshaw 1986, p. 105.
Bibliography
edit- Earnshaw, Pat (1986). Lace Machines and Machine Laces. Batsford. ISBN 0713446846.
- Farrell, Jeremy (2007). "Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace" (PDF). DATS (Dress and Textile Specialists) in partnership with the V&A.
- Felkin, William. A history of the machine-wrought hosiery and lace manufacturies. Longmans, G.Keen, and co. 1867.
- Mahin, Abbie C. "Pusher Lace: An Early American Machine-Made Fabric" (PDF). The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club. 6 (1922): 5. Retrieved 5 November 2014.
