Qudrat Ali (born 11 September 1969) (Urdu:قدرت علی) is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is a co-founder of Shimshal Mountaineering School, where he gives technical training in mountain climbing. He is also a distinguished member of the Alpine Club.

Qudrat Ali
Born (1969-09-11) 11 September 1969 (age 55)
NationalityPakistani
OccupationMountaineer

Early life

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Qudrat Ali was born in Shimshal village, Hunza–Nagar District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. He experienced childhood in the Shimshal Valley and spent his initial years moving in the Alps and became endlessly in love with the mountains.

Mountain climbing career

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Qudrat Ali's mountain climbing career started in 1991 when he accompanied Paul Hudson to a peak in Shimshal, he learned the techniques of mountain climbing from him.[1] He successfully climbed four 8000ers (Broad Peak (1999), Gasherbrum I(2004) and II(2000) and the Nanga Parbat(2001)) out of five in Pakistan.[2][3] In later years he would join accomplished mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits[4][5] and alpinist Simone Moro[6] to climb different peaks in Pakistan. In 2001 he made a successful ascent of Nanga Parbat without supplemental oxygen, with Ralf Dujmovits, and Qudrat Ali was the main climber to rise every one of the fourteen crests.[7] He has been part of several challenging expeditions including winter attempts of broad peak twice, in 2008 and 2009.[6][8]

List of mountains climbed

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Year Name of Peak Height
1991 Mangaligh Sar [9] 6050m
1995 Chaskin Sar [9] 6300m
1997 Shofkatin Sar [9] 5800m
1998 Gasherbrum II [9] 8035m (Climbed to 7500m)
1999 Broad Peak [9] 8047m
2000 Gasherbrum II [9] 8035m
2001 Nanga Parbat [9] 8125m
2002 Manaslu [9] 8165m (Climbed to 7700m)
2003 Gasherbrum II [9] 8035m
2004 Gasherbrum I [9] 8068m
2005 Nanga Parbat [9] 8125m
2006 Walyoo Sar [9] 6030m
2006 K2 [9] 8611m
2006 Mangaligh Sar [9] 6050m
2007 Khurdopin Pass [10] 5790m
2008 Broad Peak [8] 8047m
2009 Broad Peak [8] 8047m
2011 Mangaligh Sar [11] 6050m
2015 Shofkatin Sar 5800m
2017 Khurdopin Pass [12] 5790m

Awards

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  • 2004 - Shield awarded by the Government of Pakistan for his summit of Nanga Parbat.[13]
  • 2005 - The Best performance in climbing at Mountain Festival, Islamabad.[13][14]
  • 2021 - President of Pakistan Award.[1]
  • 2022 - Army Chief Appreciation Award. [2]

Shimshal Mountaineering School

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Established formally in 2009 with the support of Simone Moro,[15] Shimshal Mountaineering School is a pioneer in professional mountaineering training institutes in Pakistan. A dream project of Qudrat Ali and Shaheen Baig, Shimshal Mountaineering School strives to promote healthy sports and excellence in professional mountaineering through extensive hands-on mountaineering training programs. Led by a team of renowned mountaineering instructors, with the treasure of mountaineering experience, Shimshal Mountaineering School has a very customized and tailor-made mountaineering course to suit the needs of beginners as well as advanced level mountaineers. Located at the heart of Shimshal. Shimshal Mountaineering School is the first ever mountaineering institute in Pakistan which initiated an exclusive mountaineering program for women since its inception.[16]

Project Climb4Peace

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Qudrat Ali is undertaking his latest expedition Climb4Peace a five-year project with his climbing partner Samiya Rafiq.

Adventures

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His adventures include walking barefoot from Gilgit to Shimshal to honor his ancestors who roamed the land barefoot, spending 14 hrs outside at -25 °C using a sleeping bag only, and sleeping in a crevasse. He and Saad Munawar made a world record by traversing three mountain ranges.[17]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Mountain Voices: Testimony Qudrat". Mountain Voices.
  2. ^ "All set for first winter ascent on Broad Peak". Pamir Times.
  3. ^ "Sole winter expedition called off due to accident". Dawn News.
  4. ^ "German Amical Alpin Nanga Parbat 2001 Expedition". Everest News.
  5. ^ "ExplorersWeb Week-In-Review". MountEverest.net.
  6. ^ a b "Broad Peak winter attempt: Simone Moro and Co. towards Camp 3". Planet Mountain.
  7. ^ "Nanga Parbat - all summits". Adventure Stats. Archived from the original on August 17, 2007.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
  8. ^ a b c "History of Winter Climbing Broad Peak". Altitude Pakistan.
  9. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "K2 South-Southeast Spur Expedition 2008". Nicholas Rice.
  10. ^ "Khurdopin Pass". Summit Post.
  11. ^ "Shimshali girls create mountaineering history". The Express Tribune.
  12. ^ "First Khurdopin Expedition 2016/2017 (The highest pass of the Karakorum (5790m)". Pythom.
  13. ^ a b "2006 K-2 Expedition to prove that "Pakistan climbers are second to none!"". The Explorere's Web.
  14. ^ "All set for first winter ascent on Broad Peak". Pamir Times.
  15. ^ "Everest 2012: Simone Moro on Traversing Everest, Winter Ascents, and Women's Education in Pakistan". National Geographic. Archived from the original on March 29, 2012.
  16. ^ "Pakistani Women Scale New Heights". Huffington Post.
  17. ^ "Qudrat Ali – Kamran On Bike". Retrieved 2024-03-11.
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