Rock Master is an international competition climbing event that is held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award.[1]

History

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In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event, a jury give out the "Arco Rock Legends", two awards that are considered the Oscars of climbing:[1]

  • Salewa Rock Award for the athlete with the best performance on single-pitch sport climbs and boulders.
  • La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.

Format

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The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

  • in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals, and finals.
  • in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011. The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and was attended by the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[2]

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[3]

Winners

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Lead

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Year Male Female
1987   Stefan Glowacz   Lynn Hill
1988   Stefan Glowacz
  Patrick Edlinger
  Lynn Hill
1989   Didier Raboutou   Lynn Hill
1990   François Legrand   Lynn Hill
1991   Yuji Hirayama   Isabelle Patissier
1992   Stefan Glowacz   Lynn Hill
1993   Elie Chevieux   Susi Good
1994   François Legrand   Robyn Erbesfield
1995   François Lombard   Laurence Guyon
1996   François Lombard   Katie Brown
1997   François Legrand   Katie Brown
1998   François Legrand   Liv Sansoz
1999   Eugeny Ovtchinnikov   Muriel Sarkany
2000   Eugeny Ovtchinnikov   Muriel Sarkany
2001   Christian Bindhammer
  Tomáš Mrázek
  Yuji Hirayama
  Muriel Sarkany
  Martina Cufar
2002   Alexandre Chabot   Sandrine Levet
2003   Alexandre Chabot   Angela Eiter
2004   Alexandre Chabot   Angela Eiter
2005   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Angela Eiter
2006   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Sandrine Levet
2007   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Angela Eiter
2008   Patxi Usobiaga   Johanna Ernst
2009   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Angela Eiter
2010   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Jain Kim
2011 - -
2012   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Angela Eiter
2013   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Mina Markovič

Bouldering

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Year Male Female
1999   Daniel Andrada   Elena Choumilova
2000   Tomasz Oleksy   Natalia Novikova
2001   Salavat Rakhmetov   Corinne Théroux
2002   Mauro Calibani   Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003   Mauro Calibani   Olga Bibik
2004   Matthias Müller   Mélanie Son
2005   Kilian Fischhuber   Mélanie Son
2006   Nalle Hukkataival   Anna Stöhr
2007   Gareth Parry   Anna Stöhr
2008   Kilian Fischhuber   Katharina Saurwein
2009   Kilian Fischhuber   Alizée Dufraisse
2010   Cédric Lachat [de]   Anna Stöhr
2011 - -
2012   Dmitrij Šarafutdinov   Alex Puccio
2013   Rustam Gelmanov   Alex Puccio

Speed

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Year Male Female
1999   Vladimir Zakharov
2000   Alexei Gadeev
2001   Iakov Soubotine
2002   Tomasz Oleksy
2003   Alexei Gadeev
2004   Tomasz Oleksy
2005   Tomasz Oleksy
2006   Sergey Sinitsyn
2007   Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008   Manuel Escobar  Olena Ryepko
2009   Libor Hroza   Edyta Ropek
2010   Libor Hroza   Cuilian He
2011 - -
2012   Leonardo Gontero   Alina Gaydamakina
2013   Libor Hroza   Alina Gaydamakina
2014   Libor Hroza   Anouck Jaubert

Duel

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Year Male Female
2011   Adam Ondra   Yana Chereshneva
2012   Jakob Schubert   Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013   Sean McColl   Dinara Fakhritdinova
2014   Sean McColl   Dinara Fakhritdinova
2015   Adam Ondra   Hélène Janicot

Arco Rock Legends[1]

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Year Salewa Rock Award La Sportiva Competition Award
2006   Josune Bereziartu   Angela Eiter
2007   Patxi Usobiaga   David Lama
2008   Adam Ondra   Maja Vidmar
2009   Chris Sharma   Kilian Fischhuber
2010   Adam Ondra   Akiyo Noguchi
2011   Adam Ondra   Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012   Sasha DiGiulian   Anna Stöhr
2013   Adam Ondra   Mina Markovič
2014   Muriel Sarkany   Urko Carmona Barandiaran
2015   Alexander Megos   Adam Ondra
2016   Daniel Andrada   Mina Markovič
2017   Margo Hayes   Janja Garnbret

References

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  1. ^ a b c "Arco Rock Legends 2017: Six Nominations for Sport Oscar". Gripped.com. 25 August 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  2. ^ Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  3. ^ "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.

Bibliography

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