Roger Vivier is a French fashion accessories label founded by Roger Vivier in 1937 that specializes in shoes.[1][2] In the early 1950s, the brand's namesake designer produced the first modern stiletto heel.[3][4] Another signature design associated with the brand is the Belle Vivier, an elegant pump with a large chrome-plated buckle.[5] The pump made its debut at the Yves Saint Laurent's fashion show in 1965 and it became one of the most in-demand styles of the decade.[6] In 1967, the shoes were forever immortalized in Luis Buñel’s film Belle de Jour when Catherine Deneuve wore them.
History
edit
Vivier created the label in 1937 and gained immediate popularity for the creation of wedge soles, notably worn by Marlene Dietrich, and later with the modern creation of the stiletto heel in 1954. Along with Marlene Dietrich, the label was worn by a number of mid-century celebrities and socialites including Gloria Guinness, Cary Grant, Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, and The Beatles. Lavish stitching, distinctive architectural forms, glistening crystal details, embellished fastenings, striking hues, and glossy textiles like satin are among the signature motifs found in the brand's collection.[7]
In 1942, the label filed a patent for a shoe that had a large buckle-like clasp at the shoe's throat.[8] It became one of the most iconic shoe designs of the decade. Later, the label launched an updated version of the shoe, a low-heeled Pilgrim pumps with silver buckles, that was produced for Yves Saint Laurent's 1965 Mondrian collection.[9] The shoe received international publicity.
Bruno Frisoni, 2002–2018
editThe Roger Vivier brand has been owned by Diego Della Valle's company, Tod's, since 2000.[10] The business lay dormant for four years while Della Valle built his team, with creative director Bruno Frisoni’s first collection hitting the market for the fall 2004 season. During his time there, he also headed up the house’s couture footwear line, which launched for spring 2007 and wrapped in fall 2010.[11]
In 2010, Rogier Vivier launched Rendez-Vous, a limited edition concept designed to bridge the gap between the former couture collection and the house’s main line.[12] It was presented from fall 2010 to spring 2017, in tandem with the couture collections.[13]
In 2011, the brand introduced Roger Vivier — Jeune Fille, a collection of kids’ leather ballerinas.[14]
In 2015, Roger Vivier launched a capsule collection made of selected archival pieces designed by Frisoni.[15]
Gherardo Felloni, 2018–present
editIn 2018, Gherardo Felloni became creative director of Roger Vivier.[16][17]
Upon his arrival, Felloni created new renditions of the designer's classic styles while still maintaining the brand's signature flamboyance and vibrancy.[18][19] These styles included a buckled shoe with a longer buckle and thicker heel as well as the Maharaja slipper which was made slimmer, covered in stones, and accessorized with a single feather.[20][21] Roger Vivier handbags have also gathered significant interest in the past 15 years with new models like the Viv’ Choc becoming instant icons. Felloni produces two ready-to-wear collections per year for the label which are shown in parallel to short films co-signed with Andrea Danese, starring celebrity guests such as Catherine Deneuve, Virginie Ledoyen, and Isabelle Huppert.
In 2019, Roger Vivier introduced its first line of jewelry, inspired by the house’s signature square shoe buckle.[22]
Stores
editVivier has an historical boutique on the Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, whose design is inspired by Vivier's apartment. There are three shops in the United States, the latest one opening in May 2012.[23]
Campaigns
editRoger Vivier has been working with several high-profile photographers for its advertising campaigns, including Olivia Bee (2013),[24] Michael Avedon (2015)[25] and Quentin Jones (2017).[26]
Recognition
editVivier's creations are exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in the United States, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in the United Kingdom, the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto and the Musée de la mode et du textile at the Louvre in France, a museum which has a Roger Vivier collection since 1987, among many other renowned institutions.[27] In 2013, an exhibition bringing together 140 models created by Roger Vivier was held from November 2 to November 18 at the Palais de Tokyo, under the name "Virgule etc. in the footsteps of Roger Vivier."[28][29][30]
References
edit- ^ "Roger Vivier's Gherardo Felloni on his hands-on approach to footwear". South China Morning Post. 2023-12-23. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ Enid Nemy (8 October 1998). "Roger Vivier Is Dead at 90; Raised Heels to New Heights". The New York Times. p. B 11. Retrieved 18 November 2020.
- ^ Amazon.com: Roger Vivier (Memoire): Books: Colombe Pringle
- ^ Evans, Jennifer V., "The Long 1950s as Radical In-Between", Queer 1950s, Palgrave Macmillan, retrieved 2024-03-14
- ^ "Roger Vivier: Behind The Chrome Buckle". BAGAHOLICBOY. 2016-11-25. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "The Ultimate French Girl Shoe Turns 55". British Vogue. 2020-05-05. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "Roger Vivier's Gherardo Felloni on his hands-on approach to footwear". South China Morning Post. 2023-12-23. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "The Ultimate French Girl Shoe Turns 55". British Vogue. 2020-05-05. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "Homage to Piet Mondrian". Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Retrieved 2022-01-11.
For this [1965 Mondrian] collection, Saint Laurent sketched a series of shoes that were made by the designer Roger Vivier: black pumps decorated with a large square buckle in gold or silver metal.
- ^ "Tod's splashes out $440 million on Roger Vivier shoes". Reuters. 23 November 2015.
- ^ Katya Foreman (2 February 2018), Roger Vivier and Bruno Frisoni to Part Ways Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Roger Vivier’s New Line Women's Wear Daily, 5 July 2010.
- ^ Katya Foreman (2 February 2018), Roger Vivier and Bruno Frisoni to Part Ways Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Katya Foreman (19 December 2011), Roger Vivier to Introduce Kids’ Line Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Paulina Szmydke (29 July 2015), Roger Vivier Launches Heritage Collection Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ "Tank Magazine". Tank Magazine. Retrieved 2023-11-20.
- ^ "Roger Vivier's Gherardo Felloni Goes Optical for Fall '24 With Black and White Patterns and Psychedelic Geometries". Yahoo Life. 2024-03-01. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ Holt, Bethan (2018-12-11). "Roger Vivier's new designer Gherardo Felloni on being inspired by Catherine Deneuve and making trainers glamorous". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 2023-11-20.
- ^ "Inside Roger Vivier's Parisian Op-Art Fantasy". Vogue. 2024-03-01. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "Gherardo Felloni". The World's Best Events. Retrieved 2023-11-20.
- ^ "Giant Shoes, Cher, and Laura Dern All Made an Appearance at Roger Vivier's Paris Presentation". Vogue. 2023-09-29. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ Fleur Burlet (6 December 2019), Roger Vivier Introduces First Jewelry Line Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ "Sutton's Law: Viva Vivier!". 7 May 2012.
- ^ Joelle Diderich (11 December 2013), Roger Vivier Taps Miroslava Duma for Spring Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Paulina Szmydke (29 July 2015), Roger Vivier Launches Heritage Collection Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Katya Foreman (23 January 2017), Roger Vivier Taps Sofia Sanchez de Betak as Face of Spring 2017 Collection Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ "100 Shoes:The Costume Institute / the Metropolitan Museum of Art | Seminary Co-op Bookstores". www.semcoop.com. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ "In His Shoes: Roger Vivier Retrospective Opens Tomorrow at the Palais de Tokyo". Vogue. 2013-09-30. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ updated, Ellen Himelfarb last (2013-09-30). "'Virgule etc': Roger Vivier's storied shoes go on show at Paris' Palais de Tokyo". wallpaper.com. Retrieved 2024-03-14.
- ^ Museum, FIDM (2015-07-14). "Vivier's "Virgule"". FIDM Museum. Retrieved 2024-03-14.