Talk:Mercedes-Benz W180

W Numbers

Does anyone understand why the Mercedes-Benz 220 / Mercedes-Benz 220S (as we knew it at the time) sometimes gets called W105 and sometimes gets called W180. (and for the fuel injected version - known at the time as the 220 SE - as the W128)?

W180 looks a high number compared to the others, especially as the 'fin-tailed' successor seems to have been content with the number W111.

I thought W might stand for Works Number or something, but works numbers generally start with low numbers and move towards higher numbers. That applies, mostly, to the Mercedes Benz numbers. Mostly. But not always. And not here.

I tried to understand this both from English language wikipedia and from German language wikipedia. But I failed.

I guess my underlying question is "How do these W numbers work". Since they seem to be the numbers Wikipedia contributors have chosen to use for identifying different Mercedes-Benz models, it's not simply a question that involves my personal curiosity. Unless, of course, you've understood it for years and assumed everyone else did too. Well, I don't: and I'd be grateful++ for you to share you insights. Please. Please.

Regards 06:09, 26 July 2010 (UTC)

W180

It's all explained here. Generally speaking, all of the Pontons and Fintails in terms of dimensions and chassis were identical. The difference came from Daimler's marketing policies. Entry level 180's, mid range 220s and top range 300s (a la the C, E and S classes of today). Only the latter, were hand-assembled on their X-frame (300/300S) and tubular (300SL) chassis. The chassis numbers were assigned based on politics, for example the 220SEa was given a separate W number only because it had the Bosch fuel injection fitted. At the same time, several car bodies would have shared the same W number, the W187 had a coupe, a cabrio and a roadster. So the W180 says what it means. So the original W180 was the 220a sedan, produced from 6/54 to 4/56. Afterwards the 220a became the 219 W105 (3/56-7/59). The second W180 sedan was the more powerful and better fitted 220S (3/56-8/59), and the designation was used for the 2-door 220S's (4/56-9/59). The W128 was, as I said before, the fuel-injected 220SE, produced 10/58-8/59 sedan and 7/58-11/60 coupe/cabrio. —Preceding unsigned comment added by 109.170.84.179 (talk) 10:39, 26 July 2010 (UTC)

'W' Designation

"W" stands for "Wagen". MB internal model numbers (called 'Baumuster' numbers) are by no means sequential or representative in earlier years, and even in recent years, they do not always follow a logical sequence. The same numbering system is used for engines, with the prefix "M" ("Motor") for gasoline engines, and "OM" ("Öl-Motor") for diesel engines. Other prefixes are used for commercial and heavy vehicles, and transmissions.

From the perspective of the collector, parts vendor and service provider, these chassis designations are absolutely distinct. To group all round-body or "Ponton" models under the same Wikipedia classification would be incorrect. However, a general page discussing the common development of these early unstressed unibody models would be appropriate, provided pages for individual model families remain intact. 97.88.244.26 (talk) 21:57, 21 March 2012 (UTC)

Picture

The car says "Wikipedia".--Johnny 42 (talk) 03:37, 30 April 2013 (UTC)

8 Most Common Mercedes-Benz Problems

1. Rust One of the main challenges with Mercedes-Benz cars is rust. We still remember an older Mercedes-Benz 240D that had over 1 million miles still running strong but the floor had rusted out, and you can see the ground when sitting on the driver seat. The newer Mercedes-Benz models still have rust issues as well. Get a flashlight and carefully inspect the car. Look under the wheel wells and near the bumpers. Check the front fenders and the rear quarter panels. Once rust develops it is very expensive to repair. You should avoid cars that have rust. One place that you should always check for rust is behind the license plate. Remove the license plate and inspect. Check for rust at the bottom of the doors. This is another spot where you may notice rust problems. 2. Engine Mounts Engine mounts on Mercedes-Benz cars are oil filled. Their main purpose is to keep the engine vibrations from being transmitted to the cabin. Because they are oil filled, around 100,000 miles, they start to fail and lose the oil. When the engine mounts fail you may notice excessive vibration on the seat, in the cabin, and even on the steering wheel. The price of the engine mounts is reasonable when you buy the parts online. Replacing the motor mounts can take between 4 and 6 hours labor. 3. Suspension & Steering Components Ball joints, sway bar link,control arm bushings on used Mercedes-Benz wear out much sooner than you would expect. This is based on our experience with used Mercedes-Benz. If you take a Mercedes-Benz for state inspection, it is very likely to fail due to suspension issues especially if the car has over 100k miles. 4. Window Regulators Window regulators do the hard work when you press the button to lower or close the windows. They do tend to fail more on Mercedes-Benz ML-Class and C-Class based on our experience. Window regulators don’t fail on Mercedes-Benz cars only. They are a common problem on BMW, Lexus, and Audi. Window regulators can easily be replaced. This is a DIY type of job if you have the patience. If you have a mechanic at your local auto repair shop change the window regulator expect to pay between $350-$500 and even more at your authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership. 5. AirMatic Components The first Mercedes-Benz models that had air suspension were the S-Class W220 in 2000 and later the E-Class W211. The airmatic bags replaces the struts and shocks on your Mercedes-Benz. While it was an excellent feature added to some Mercedes-Benz models, but it was also prone to failure. In the early days, replacement parts were very expensive, but aftermarket parts are now readily available and at reasonable prices. Not all Mercedes-Benz cars are equipped with air suspension, so this doesn’t apply to all MB models. Air suspension components that fail the most are: 6. Catalytic Converts Catalytic converters are prone to failure. We have seen a few Mercedes-Benz needing new catalytic converters at 60,000 miles. As the catalytic converter may become less effective or clogged, the oxygen sensors may trigger the check engine or service engine light. As the catalytic converter’s condition worsens you may also notice performance issues, misfire, and hesitation. Replacing the catalytic converter can be very expensive. Depending on the Mercedes-Benz model you may get quotes as high as $4000. If that is out of your budget, the alternative would be to install Universal Catalytic Converter. It costs a lot less but you will need an exhaust / muffler shop to weld it in place. 7. Transmission Problems The 5-speed automatic transmission is a very well built and robust transmission. But a chain can be as long as its weakest link and that philosophy applies to Mercedes-Benz transmission. While the transmission in itself is bulletproof the13-pin connector and the valve body issues have caused a fair reputation damage to Mercedes-Benz. The good thing is that these repairs are relatively inexpensive and can be completed without removing the transmission. 8. Check Engine Light A very common problem is the check engine light coming on due to the gas cap not being tight enough. Next time you fill up your car with gas, make sure to tighten the gas cap or the service engine light may come on. If the check engine light comes on for other reasons you can use an OBD II scanner to read and erase the engine fault codes on your Mercedes-Benz. In the video below we show you how to Rear and Erase the fault Check Engine Fault Codes using one of Best Selling OBD-II scanners on Amazon and the more advanced Launch Creader OBD II scanner.

reference https://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-benz-common-problems Areo John (talk) 16:48, 2 November 2022 (UTC)