In climbing, a Tyrolean traverse is a climbing technique that enables climbers to cross a void between two fixed points, which are typically between land a detached rock pillar (e.g. a sea stack) or between two points that enable the climbers to cross over an obstacle such as chasm or ravine, or over a fast moving river. Originally developed by Tryolean mountaineers in the Dolomites in the late 19th century, Tyrolean traverses are used in other areas including caving and in mountain rescue situations.[1][2]
With a traverse-rope fixed between two points — ideally under tension — the climber attaches to the rope using a short quickdraw (or equivalent alternative) that is attached to their harness. A backup attachment loop using carabiners and slings is also recommended. Any backpacks are separately clipped to the rope and also clipped to the climber, so they can be dragged across. The climber lies horizontal to the rope with their head facing the direction of travel and moves by pulling hand-over-hand on the rope. Devices such as ascenders can help pull along the rope, pullies can help reduce friction, and progress capture devices (PCDs) can prevent slippage back along the rope.[1][2]
Where there is no traverse-rope fixed in place, the climbers will have to set one up which typically requires a static abseiling rope that needs to be more than twice the length of the void being crossed if they want to be able to retrieve the rope on completing the traverse.[2] Ideally the two sides are level, however, where the the destination is at a much lower level (i.e. more akin to a zip line), the climbers may use a separate abseil rope to control their descent speed. Conversely, if the destination is at a higher level, then the climbers will need devices such as ascenders and PCDs to help pull themselves up the traverse-rope (i.e. in the manner of fixed rope ascending or 'jumaring').[2]
Notable Tyrolean traverses in climbing include the crossing to the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite,[3] the crossing to the Old Man of Stoer in Scotland,[4] and the crossing to the Totem Pole in Tasmania.[5] The Guiness World Records lists the longest Tyrolean traverse as being the 1,500-metre (4,900 ft) crossing between the Malyovitsa and Orlovets mountain summits in Bulgaria that was made by Daniel Stefanov in 2008,[6] and the longest Tyrolean traverse over a lava lake being the 100.58-metre (330.0 ft) crossing of Erta Ale in Ethopia by Karina Oliani in 2017.[7] A fatal accident while conducting a Tyrolean traverse features prominently in the opening scene of the 1993 Sylvester Stallone Hollywood blockbuster film Cliffhanger.[8]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ a b Hildenbrand, Bruce (3 October 2013). "How to Do the Tyrolean Traverse". Climbing. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ a b c d The Mountaineers (2018). "Chapter 15. Aid and Big Wall Climbing. Tyrolean traverses". Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. pp. 302–303. ISBN 978-1846892622.
- ^ The Editors (26 May 2011). "Committed: Lost Arrow Spire, Tyrolean Traverse". Climbing. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ Burr, Andrew (19 December 2013). "The Devil and the Deep Blue Sea: Scotland's Sea Stacks". Climbing. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ McDonald, Dougald (1 December 2021). "With No Rescue Equipment and a Dying, Paralyzed Partner, This Climber Dug Deep". Climbing. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ "Longest Tyrolean traverse". Guinness World Records. 19 September 2008. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ "Longest tyrolean traverse over a lava lake". Guinness World Records. 3 December 2017. Retrieved 19 October 2024.
- ^ Fordy, Tom (2 June 2023). "'Did I really need to risk my life?': how the insane Cliffhanger left Sylvester Stallone to dangle". Retrieved 19 October 2024.
Further reading
edit- The Mountaineers (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. ISBN 978-1846892622.
External links
edit
- Sonnie Trotter on Climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania, Patagonia (2016)
- Setting Up a Tryolean Traverse: Crossing Into the Abyss!, Wandering Climber (2021)