Wikipedia:Reference desk/Archives/Computing/2012 November 15

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November 15

Trespassing by "Registry Mechanic"

A few months ago I looked at the web site of some proprietary software called "registry mechanic". I did not intentionally download anything. Ever since then, at 7:00 PM each evening, all processes on my computer get shut down so that the registry mechanic software can run. If left to itself, it generates a report saying something's wrong with my computer and I should buy something from them to fix the problem. Tonight I was typing a comment on facebook when registry mechanic came along and shut down the page. There's some software that's supposedly intended to delete the registry mechanic software from my machine, but there can be little doubt that that's a fraud. The idea that they should be polite to people they're trying to sell stuff to exceeds the comprehension of whoever did this. This is clearly a criminal trespass.

Is there a safe way to delete this software? Michael Hardy (talk) 01:27, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Unless it has replaced core executables, you can delete it as any other software: via Programs & Features or simply by deleting its exectables and files. You might start by running msconfig and making sure it is not set to run upon bootup. ¦ Reisio (talk) 03:02, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

See also Registry Mechanic#Criticism.--Shantavira|^{feed me} 08:34, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Thank you, Reisio and Shantavira. Michael Hardy (talk) 22:54, 20 November 2012 (UTC)

Use computer monitor for TV

I have an extra computer monitor with standard (VGA) input only and I want to use it as a TV. Is there an inexpensive way to do this?

I googled for this, and found ways requiring a TV tuner. However, I shouldn't need a tuner. I want to connect the computer monitor to either:

1. a digital cable TV box with a coax output, or
2. a DVD player with HDMI, component, S-video, coax, and video output.

Is there a simple, relatively inexpensive way to do this? (I see adapters to use a TV on a computer, but I want to go the other way.) Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 01:40, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

1. With a tv tuner, you can get them for very little
2. With a simple converter/adapter, you can get them for very little
3. With something like Netflix with an existing computer and VGA cable

¦ Reisio (talk) 01:58, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

The tuners I've seen are pretty expensive, and I don't think I need one anyway, since if I use the digtal cable box, the tuner is in the box. And if I connect it to the DVD player, I don't need a tuner. I've seen inexpensive adapters with the right connectors, but they only say that they allow you use use a TV connected to a computer. Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 02:19, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Well I found this and this. A little more than I wanted to spend. If I spend that much, I might be better off putting it on a cheap TV instead. Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 04:33, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Or a new monitor with HDMI in. ¦ Reisio (talk) 04:38, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Yes, I hadn't thought about that - that would work. I have a small TV hooked up to the DVD player in my audio system that I use for selecting from the DVD menu. I have an extra VGA monitor. I want to have a small TV in the kitchen. I'm thinking about ways to either use the monitor as a TV in the kitchen; or move the TV from the DVD to the kitchen and use the monitor on the DVD player. But a monitor with HDMI should be cheaper than a TV, I think. Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 05:43, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

How do you want to get the signal for the TV in the kitchen ? With rabbit ears ? Also, do you have any computer monitor with inputs beyond VGA ? If so, perhaps you can swap this monitor with that one, giving you a spare monitor with the inputs you need. StuRat (talk) 17:38, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

A coax cable outlet in the kitchen. I checked all of the monitors, and there is only one with an additional input, and I use it for my main computer, and I'm not giving it up.Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 19:16, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Does that co-ax cable contain a digital cable TV signal converted to analog, to plug right in to a TV ? Or is it still in digital form, requiring a cable converter box ?

As far as swapping monitors, you can check if any friends or relatives have an old monitor with more inputs, and perhaps they will be willing to do an exchange. Failing that, buying a cheap TV is probably the most economical solution, especially if you don't mind a used analog TV (it doesn't matter with cable, since it converts the digital signal to analog for you). I inherited so many analog TVs as a result of the digital transition, that I now have TVs in my living room, bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom. :-) StuRat (talk) 06:37, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

The cable signal is digital. But I called yesterday and I can get a converter box (with analog coax output) from the cable company for free. (HD ones with more outputs cost $10/month.) Bubba73 ^{You talkin' to me?} 15:55, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

laptop hard disk swap

I stupidly flew with my Sony Vaio laptop in a soft checked-in bag, thinking I didn't want to work on the plane and didn't want to bother with it at security. The screen got crushed enough to display its own abstract pattern Jackson Pollock would have admired but almost none of the desktop is visible. The authorized Sony repair shop here in Amman said that a new screen would cost 290 Dinars and they conveniently had the same computer for 430 Dinars and there aren't many other alternatives so it was a good day for them: I bought a replacement computer (but black, instead of pink, so my ex-wife won't tease me so much), comforting myself with the thought that I would at least end up with a spare charger, battery, and, potentially, a hard disk. But they told me that swapping the hard disk in would void my new warranty.

I've put the old computer's hard disk into a USB enclosure and the new computer sees it but it won't allow me access to my account. (I see various technical looking folders and under users, I see public and I see my account.) I follow some options and try to get ownership of my old account's folder but then it goes into hours of tweaking files, often interrupted by a failure where I can click skip, and then a crash, which requires me to swear and start again.

Question a): Is there an easier way for me to get access to my files on the old drive, and if so, how?

Question b): Apart from voiding the warranty, what should I expect if I put the old drive in the new computer? If it works, I'll copy some stuff to another working external drive, and then either put the new drive back or not even bother.

178.77.141.183 (talk) 13:08, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

I should know the answer to (a), but am apparently not awake enough to give you useful advice on it... For (b), I would expect the computer to boot up and run just fine off of your old drive. There is also a good chance your warranty won't be voided. I recommend reading through the warranty - generally competent third-party service can't void a warranty, unless the service can be shown to be the cause of the failure. (At least in the US, I don't know how the warranty will vary since you purchased it somewhere else.) Worst case, as long as you don't break any "warranty void" seals, you should be able to swap the old drive back in when you have warranty work done on it and they won't be able to tell the difference. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 13:34, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

a) You should be able to access the files just fine from the enclosure. Actually logging into the old account on the old drive is another matter that I wouldn't bother with.
b) It might work, it might not (due mostly to the nature of Microsoft Windows). You don't need to do this just to copy data off the old disk, your enclosure will suffice.
¦ Reisio (talk) 17:21, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Windows isn't going to care about the drive being swapped, so I think the old drive can just be dropped right in. However, you mentioning the enclosure again gave me the idea of booting to a USB device with imaging software installed. You could clone the old drive onto the new drive, so you have the install from your old system without taking apart your old system. I'm not sure what the best free software to use is anymore, other people here probably will have good suggestions for that. Reisio, I think the problem he is seeing is with Windows file permissions on the old disk - the files belong to the user on the old pc, not his new one. Running explorer as administrator gives access to them, but changing the owner is a recursive process that sounds like it is giving him trouble. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 17:37, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

No, it really might care. ¦ Reisio (talk) 19:00, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

The OP claims that the new laptop is the same as the old one, so the hardware sohuld be identical. Mismatched disk IDs could cause a problem if the imaging software doesn't preserve the ID, but physically moving the old disc into the new computer doesn't cause any issues there. The MAC address will change, but Windows won't care about that. If for some reason the new system refuses to boot on the old drive, it could always be moved back into the old PC. Connect an external monitor and sysprep the system, then move the drive back to the new PC. I shuffle Windows Embedded Standard 7 disks between identical (or near identical) systems somewhat often and have never had an issue, and they are basically a stripped down version of Windows 7. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 20:11, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

That's where might comes into play. ¦ Reisio (talk) 20:32, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

OP again. OK, I swapped the drives (which looked the same - both Hitachi - but the old one said it was made in Thailand and the new one China.) (Also I added the old RAM to the new computer.) When I booted up it said somemthing about 'Preparing your desktop' and then a popup message said something like "you have logged in with a temporary profile, you won't be able to access any files, this profile will be removed, try again later". I've booted up three times and that message reappears and yes, I cannot access anything. When I open C:/users/MyName I have the same access problems I had when this drive was in the enclosure. I am currently trying the whole 'Setting Security information' process I orginally complained about, which is bothersome not only because it looks as if it will takes hours but also because it halts and askes me to press 'continue' so much. Any advice or encouragement? 80.90.168.182 (talk) 06:22, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

You can boot your old system with a pc monitor and connect it to the new one by lAN and then copy the files… Iskánder Vigoa Pérez 10:12, 16 November 2012 (UTC) — Preceding unsigned comment added by Iskander HFC (talk • contribs)

Is it auto-logging into this temporary account? Does it let you log out and then back in as your regular user? 209.131.76.183 (talk) 13:01, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

I don’t fully understand this last part, I’m just telling you a way to get access to your files on the old drive… besides the broken screen, your old laptop present another problem?

What I wanted to tell you initially was:

1 - put each hdd in its respective laptop.

2 – boot both laptops. (in the old one you should not see anything because the broken display, but your things like user account, privileges etc., will still be there)

3 – connect each laptop by LAN (a cable that fix in to the rj45 port)

4 – from the new laptop access by the LAN to the old one and copy all the files you need — Preceding unsigned comment added by Iskander HFC (talk • contribs) 14:44, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Thanks everybody. I wish I'd known of the last suggestion before I, er, threw away the older laptop. Lesson learned.

I'm now using the new hard disk in the new computer and still wondering about an efficient way to access the old drive.Your Username 08:53, 17 November 2012 (UTC) — Preceding unsigned comment added by Hayttom (talk • contribs)

Again, using the enclosure will suffice. If you're having trouble accessing the files, it's probably a simple software configuration issue. ¦ Reisio (talk) 22:48, 17 November 2012 (UTC)

Well… you could try with some bootable image, like “ACTIVE BootDisk” Iskánder Vigoa Pérez 14:27, 17 November 2012 (UTC) — Preceding unsigned comment added by Iskander HFC (talk • contribs)

I was doing this very thing myself this afternoon, so I have the command line to hand. My external drive was E: so use the appropriate one for yours. First right click on Start->Accessories->CommandPrompt and select Run As Administrator.

cd /d e:\Users
takeown /f e:\Users /r /d y		This will take some time, possibly hours
Then in windows explorer, right click on e:\Users, Properties, Security, Edit, Add
Enter your username in the box, OK
Select your username which should now be in the top pane, click on Full Access in the lower pane, and Apply
This again takes some time

Kram (talk) 19:45, 18 November 2012 (UTC)

Oops, I missed out a step, sorry. The first time I ran the takeown command, the process ran for a few minutes then stopped with a path error. It turned out to be an issue with SYMLINK's and JUNCTIONS's which I fixed by mounting the disk under Linux (I used Puppy, but Ubuntu or any other will work) and just deleting all the lop level symbolic links at the E:\User\YourUserName level. You should be able to do the same thing from the windows command line (run as administrator), just use "dir/a" to identify them and rmdir to remove the links (I didn't because I didn't quite trust random google results telling me to just use rmdir). Perhaps another editor can chip in here. Anyway you may not need to do this (mine was a rather old vista HDD that I needed to get some files off). Good luck. Kram (talk) 20:09, 18 November 2012 (UTC)

As a follow up (since nobody else has), it does appear safe to use rmdir to delete symbolic links and junctions. It is also possible to assign permissions from the command line via icacls, but its pretty arcane. You can get more info by googling "change file permissions windows command line" (without the quotes). Kram (talk) 16:21, 19 November 2012 (UTC)

Find a text editor that can highlight MediaWiki syntax.

Hello! WikED (or AWB) can highlight syntax, and I want a local editor that can do that. But I found UltraEdit seems do not support MediaWiki language...--Anonymous 15:26, 15 November 2012 (UTC) — Preceding unsigned comment added by 202.117.145.246 (talk)

Have a look at Wikipedia:Text_editor_support. If you don't want to dive in to world of hard-core text editors (emacs/VI families), TextMate might be a good alternative. SemanticMantis (talk) 15:39, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

BTW, I started searching for mediawiki syntax highlighting, which wasn't working well. Searching for /wikimarkup text editor syntax highlighting/ took me straight to the link above. SemanticMantis (talk) 15:40, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Bluetooth peripherals in OSX

Hello, I use an Apple magic mouse and a magic trackpad on OSX (10.7.5). The trackpad automatically syncs / reconnects each morning when I wake up the computer and turn on the trackpad, but the mouse does not. I have to manually add the mouse again each day via system preferences. Is there a way I can make both peripherals automatically reconnect when powered on? Thanks, SemanticMantis (talk) 15:34, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Help with upgrading PC.

I'm helping someone upgrade a computer that they are using & need some help in getting a list of what parts we will need. From a manual I found, it has a K7S5A Socket A motherboard & I was trying to find what components (ie CPU, Graphics Card, Sound Card, etc) I need to get to "max it out" but when I've googled the motherboard details all I get are lists of every component that compatible with that board. Could someone help & narrow it down for me please ?
PS I know that its an old motherboard & I've offered to get a brand new one for them but thats the one that they want. Scotius (talk) 15:36, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Socket A was back in the AGP days, right? "Maxing out" the video card will cost $40ish for an ancient GeForce 6200, assuming it takes AGP 8x. On Newegg, 4x cards are closer to $60. If they're looking for gaming performance, it is time to update the whole system. The motherboard is going to put very low limits on what you can do. Just to give an idea of what you can do with a new system, this TigerDirect kit [1] is $150 ($200 before rebate) and comes with everything but a hard drive and videocard. A $60 modern videocard, although at the low end of the performance spectrum, will still greatly outperform a $60 AGP 4x card. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 15:49, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Actually, it looks like the motherboard has onboard video. According to [2], the onboard video (Radeon 3000) outperforms the GeForce 6200 that is the best you can put in the old motherboard. It is definitely low-end, but it is better than a "maxed-out" card in what they currently have. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 16:43, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

So for the list of components, what CPU will I need ? Scotius (talk) 11:37, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

That's a no than 80.254.146.140 (talk) 15:26, 21 November 2012 (UTC)

Win XP SP3 won't boot

There's no error message displayed, and it won't boot in "safe mode" or "last good boot" mode, either. I'm able to boot it into Linux, using a flash drive, and can access the hard drive that way, so it doesn't appear to be a hardware issue, although there could be a bad sector where a critical component of the O/S is stored, I suppose. Also, the Puppy Linux boot seems buggy. In particular, either Firefox dies with no error or the screen goes black, with nothing but a non-moving pointer. When I reboot, it's good for a while longer. I haven't used this Linux install on this PC enough to know if it's always like this or if this is new behavior. So, short of reinstalling the O/S, what can I try ? StuRat (talk) 16:27, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Can you elaborate a little more on what is displayed when you boot? Is it just a black screen with a cursor, or...? What's the full sequence of what you see — does the BIOS boot up? --Mr.98 (talk) 16:47, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

No black screen in Windows. It goes through the normal boot sequence until Windows should appear, then, instead of doing that, it gives the standard, "Windows could not start normally, selected one of the following choices" panel, with each choice producing the same results. StuRat (talk) 17:30, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Did you check the BIOS? Oda Mari (talk) 08:06, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

No. How do I do that ? StuRat (talk) 18:29, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Support representatives of my computer always say to check BIOS and select "default" when I have booting troubles and, if my memory serves me right, I can check it from the standard, "Windows could not start normally, selected one of the following choices" panel. Or maybe I should press F? key. My XP is an OEM and I have no idea what you should do with yours. I don't think your trouble is related to static electricity, but try to pull out the plug and leave it for a while. It works sometimes. Oda Mari (talk) 07:20, 17 November 2012 (UTC)

I tried both restoring the BIOS defaults and unplugging it, with no change. StuRat (talk) 23:33, 17 November 2012 (UTC)

You could try booting a Windows XP install image and running its error checking stuff. ¦ Reisio (talk) 17:24, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Error logs ?

Let me ask where I can read error logs which might tell me what the problem is. (Even though no error is displayed to the screen, that doesn't mean it wasn't logged.) StuRat (talk) 06:31, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Any other suggestions ? If I can't figure this out, I may need to buy a new computer to finish my online classes. StuRat (talk) 22:37, 17 November 2012 (UTC)

One physical, two logical printers?

Is it possible to configure the same physical printer as two logical devices? Clearly, it would have to have two names; my reason is to have two different default value sets so I'm not clicking on and changing Properties 50% of the time.

Primary interest is for Win7 in a corporate environment -- and I'm not the network admin. We have a big-ass copier/fax/scanner/printer configured as a B&W printer (free) and also as a color printer (for which we charge), but I'd like to install two variants of the B&W device. At my level using Add Printer -> Add Network Printer won't show any other device which I have already added, so I can't "reselect" it and do this on my own. Any other suggestions?

--DaHorsesMouth (talk) 17:40, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

It can be done, but I'm not sure if Windows and other operating systems support it. You might have to do something messy, like printing to a file, then send that file to the printer. StuRat (talk) 17:47, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

You may have some luck with the "net use" [3] command. 209.131.76.183 (talk) 18:15, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Nothing prevents you from creating two or more logical printers for the same physical printer (including network printers) in Windows. Ruslik_Zero 19:30, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

Good! But, can you suggest HOW exactly? Like I previously said, Add Printer -> Add Network Printer doesn't seem to be the right path; perhaps you can link me to some more specific instructions? --DaHorsesMouth (talk) 23:00, 15 November 2012 (UTC)

"Add Printer -> Add Network Printer doesn't seem to be the right path". Why? You should just proceed with creation. Ruslik_Zero 11:39, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Can you suggest HOW exactly? Perhaps you can link me to some more specific instructions? This is getting frustrating.

--DaHorsesMouth (talk) 16:22, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Exactly the same as with the first instance of this printer. Just repeat the installation the second time. Ruslik_Zero 19:24, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

I would recommend using AutoIt or something similar to chose the desired configuration. Trio The Punch (talk) 21:41, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

Given the glaring absence of any real instructions or usable suggestions, I conclude that this cannot be done by an end user of this system.

--DaHorsesMouth (talk) 22:03, 16 November 2012 (UTC)

That conclusion is wrong. [4] Trio The Punch (talk) 14:02, 17 November 2012 (UTC)

Excellent -- thanks! (I've never run across that site before, either.)

Since it's Sunday night and I'm not at work, can you answer one question on that procedure? Is the bit about installing the new printer object as a local printer on LPT1: part of the "trick" here, or will this only work for actual local printers? Recall that one of the opening parameters here is that this is an existing network printer (and I am not an admin); in the same vein, I have reservations about being able to change the shared name, but I'll try it tomorrow.

Regardless, though, thanks for digging up that site. --DaHorsesMouth (talk) 00:50, 19 November 2012 (UTC)

I'm going back to my original conclusion. A second instance of an existing networked printer cannot be configured on a Win7 system by an end user. Perhaps I should have avoided the use of the word "install" in the problem specs. --DaHorsesMouth (talk) 23:08, 19 November 2012 (UTC)