Bhavani Jamakkalam refers to blankets and carpets manufactured in Bhavani in Erode district, Tamil Nadu.[1][2] It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005-06.[3]
| Bhavani Jamakkalam | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
 Bhavani Jamakkalam | |
| Description | Blankets and carpets manufactured in Bhavani |
| Type | Handicraft |
| Area | Bhavani, Tamil Nadu |
| Country | India |
| Registered | 2005-06 |
| Material | Cotton |
History
editIn the late nineteenth century, competition from British made textiles led Indian weavers to invent new types of garments.[2] In Bhavani, a community of weavers called Jangamars weaved a type of blanket using colored coarse threads called Jamakkalam.[4] The popularity of the product led to the production of jamakkalams by other weavers replacing the production of traditional sarees and other cloths.[4]
Types
editTwo types of jamakkalams are produced in Bhavani.[5] The first type is made from coarser cotton threads capable of producing carpets with colored bands.[5] As the thread was coarser, designs could not be weaved on to this type of carpet.[5] Hence, a second softer variety of jamakkalams were introduced that were made of artificial silk threads enabling weavers to weave different kinds of border designs.[5] Jamakkalams are also used to make fashion products such as backpacks.[6]
Community
editTraditionally, jamakkalams were weaved by independent weavers in their houses.[7] Later it moved into a system where jamakkalam is weaved by weavers on hand-looms supervised by master weavers.[8] The master weavers lease hand-looms and contract weavers. The hand-looms are owned by trade merchants who procure raw materials such as thread from neighboring cities of Coimbatore, Salem and Karur.[9] About 1500 workers are involved in the production of jamakkalams with women forming two-thirds of the work force.[10]
Weaving loom
editA pit loom is used to weave jamakkalams.[10] The looms are made of wood with the threads stretched horizontally from end to end.[10] The weaver sits in a pit dug in the ground, on level with the weaving surface.[10] The weaver operates two pedals with his legs while enabling the hands to move the shuttle across to produce the weaving pattern.[10]
Exports
editThe jamakkalams manufactured in Bhavani are exported to various countries such as Sweden, Germany, Italy, U.K., U.S. and Singapore.[11] In 1993, Swedish major IKEA started procuring jamakkalams from Bhavani to be sold across its stores.[11]
Competition
editSince the 2000s, the hand weaved jamakkalams from Bhavani have faced competition from power-loom products.[12] The Government of Tamil Nadu offers subsidy to weavers and has enacted laws to outlaw the use of power-looms.[12] The government also sells the blankets through government run Co-optex stores. Competition from blankets produced in Solapur, Maharashtra and cheap imports from neighbors China, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka has resulted in drop in demand for Bhavani jamakkalams.[12]
Geographical Indication
editIn 2005, the Government of Tamil Nadu applied for Geographical Indication for Bhavani jamakkalams.[13] The Government of India recognized it as a Geographical indication officially since the year 2005-06.[3]
References
edit- ^ Parry; Breman; Kapadia. The worlds of Indian industrial labour. p. 380.
- ^ a b de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 42.
- ^ a b "Geographical indications of India". Government of India. Archived from the original on 26 August 2013. Retrieved 28 June 2015.
- ^ a b de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 43.
- ^ a b c d de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 87.
- ^ "When passion met fashion". The Hindu. 13 April 2014.
- ^ de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 167.
- ^ de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 45.
- ^ de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 44.
- ^ a b c d e de Neve. The Everyday Politics of Labour. p. 86.
- ^ a b Assayag, Fuller. Globalizing India: Perspectives from Below. p. 93.
- ^ a b c "No takers for Erode blankets". Deccan Chronicle. 31 March 2013.
- ^ "GI tag: TN trails Karnataka with 18 products". Times of India. 29 August 2013.
Bibliography
edit- Geert de Neve (2005). The Everyday Politics of Labour: Working Lives in India's Informal Economy. Berghahn Books. ISBN 9788187358183.
- Jonathan P. Parry; Jan Breman; Karin Kapadia (2000). The worlds of Indian industrial labour. Sage Publications. ISBN 9780761993957.
- Jackie Assayag; Chris Fuller (2005). Globalizing India: Perspectives from Below. Anthem Press. ISBN 9780857287243.